lHi guys looking for some advise as I am not mechanically inclined, so am trying to avoid the cost of takng the car to a garage to have the work done. I have had the threads re-tapped, and am using a triple oversize plug in the pan now,this is holding for now, but for how long, who knows. I have been able to find double oversize plugs, that have a new threaded hole and plug built into them, but have not been able to find this in the triple oversize. Does anyone know if these are availlable anywhere? I know the proper way to fix this would be to lift the motor,pull the pan, and replace it, but this sounds like an expensive proposition at todays mechanical rates. I have also been told, that it is possible to have the double oversize plug wire welded on. This does not seem like the ideal option to me. Any sugestions would be appreciated. Thanks Ted
lHi guys looking for some advise as I am not mechanically inclined, so am trying to avoid the cost of takng the car to a garage to have the work done. I have had the threads re-tapped, and am using a triple oversize plug in the pan now,this is holding for now, but for how long, who knows. I have been able to find double oversize plugs, that have a new threaded hole and plug built into them, but have not been able to find this in the triple oversize. Does anyone know if these are availlable anywhere? I know the proper way to fix this would be to lift the motor,pull the pan, and replace it, but this sounds like an expensive proposition at todays mechanical rates. I have also been told, that it is possible to have the double oversize plug wire welded on. This does not seem like the ideal option to me. Any sugestions would be appreciated. Thanks Ted
I have a sort of similar problem with my S10 4 cyl The plug will not tighten and leaks. If I back it out, the threads get tight, so i figure, a thicker washer, can keep me in "good thread" range.. I have never seen a bolt welded on, but I am sure there are ways.
Would it be possible to find a fitting that has a smaller fitting screwed in to it. you could then permanently weld it in the stripped hole, then unscrew the smaller fitting out of that. hope i expained that OK.
It would be simmilar to a drain **** on a rad, put an actual fitting, rather that a butterfly valve.
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Not sure if they make such a thing in steel(weldable) form. I know there are brass ones like it.
It is possible to tack weld on an oilpan in the car. It has been done many a time.
-- Edited by beaumontguru at 15:18, 2009-01-07
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Beaumontguru
MY BEAUMONT HAS 4 STUDDED TIRES AND 2 BLOCKHEATERS......AND LOTS OF OIL UNDERNEATH. The other one has a longer roof.
Always a tough spot to be in.. Although there's been lots of magic repair kits and rubber plugs over the years, I've had good results by tapping the holes to fit slightly larger size plugs I'd find at the boneyard.. Being it sounds like you've done something similar anyway, if you're leery that the one you've installed may vibrate loose, why not clean the area well and smear some kind of oil resistant adhesive type material around the plug so it can't loosen?. Obviously it won't look pretty also you'd have to re-goo it at each oil change but the result of it vibrating loose would be a disaster!.
Good luck!.
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I like real cars best...especially the REAL real ones! ----------------------------------------------------------------
Always a tough spot to be in.. Although there's been lots of magic repair kits and rubber plugs over the years, I've had good results by tapping the holes to fit slightly larger size plugs I'd find at the boneyard.. Being it sounds like you've done something similar anyway, if you're leery that the one you've installed may vibrate loose, why not clean the area well and smear some kind of oil resistant adhesive type material around the plug so it can't loosen?. Obviously it won't look pretty also you'd have to re-goo it at each oil change but the result of it vibrating loose would be a disaster!.
Good luck!.
the rubber plug works-had one on my Dad's Ford pick up for years ! well that was after I blew the valve covers off the Monza trying to brase a nut from another pan on !-hey I was 16
i had stripped a sparkplug on a old japanese motorcycle years ago and how we fixed the threads was with item called a keen-cert (not sure of spelling). like an adapter with standard threads in the middle and reverse thread on the outside. so it screwed in tighter when you screwed out the sparksplug
kind of like a "Helicoil".. what I did when this happend to me.. (you wont like it) is I dropped the pan and GM actually sold the new threaded block. I drilled the spot welds and re-welded in the new one. it's the best fix.. otherwise, maybe a "threadsert" or "Heli-coil" with some loc tite. I've even heard of guys using JB weld. coat the bolt with something so the JB weld won't stick to it, and thread it in.. or under size the bolt with the JB and then tap it out to the size you need.. it's amazing stuff..
Thanks to everyone for all the advise. You are a great bunch of car guys. Wish I was more mecanically inclined, I will sift through the options and try to decide whitch way to go. I bought the car 4 years ago and discovered the oil pan problem on the first oil change after. I assume a previous owner had hit something as there is a small dent in the oil pan right near the plug. that must have affected the angle that the plug went in. Anyway it has held with a oversize plug for the last four years ,(just have to be carefull putting the plug back in every oil change)
