Change the water pump because it's bypassing the motor, check the hoses for pinching, and check for white smoke out of the exhaust. The last one is the head gasket because it will get hot if the head gasket burned from a water jacket into the combustion chamber. White smoke and a antifreeze smell at the tail pipes will indicate that water is getting into the combustion area. You probably didn't change the antifreeze and it gets acidic which attacks the head gasket. Mark sure you flush it.

I'm not sure what "today i remove the dom" means, but here's a number things to think about.  
- You haven't indicated if this is a recently rebuilt motor or if you've had it for a while. 
- Many things effect engine temperature, including initial spark timing.  Check your timing, and maybe baseline it at say 6 degrees BTDC.    Is the car running lean?  That can effect engine temp.
- What's the condition of the radiator?  Is it plugged up? 
- Verify your upper and lower radiator hoses are not kinked.  (the lower hose should have a spring inside it so it doesn't cave in).   
- To verify you don't have a airlock in the cooling system, drain the radiator, and disconnect a heater hose where it goes into the intake manifold.  Fill the rad, and you should feel air coming out of the heater hose fitting on the intake.  Just be careful not to fill the rad too much before replacing the heater hose or you'll have coolant running out of that fitting.  
- You've also indicated you removed the thermostat, if you reinstall maybe go with a 180 degree one.

I would sure check the air lock situation. I've had that happen a couple times on 2 different engines after they had work done on them and we had filled them up with coolant. It sometimes isn't thought of but it will sure shut you down. At this time of the year if that rad was keeping your six cool it should keep your 8 cool too but you'll probably want to put in the spacer section so your rad gets closer to your engine as the 8 is shorter than your 6. Good luck.

Did you just rebuild the engine and put it back in the car recently?

Silly question, but gotta ask. Is the fan blade on correctly?

Timing is correct?

Fan belt is tight?

What temperature is it running?

65acadiantoplist wrote:

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Hi amhaving trouble whit my 283 cu it overheating whay to much .I try taking the thermota out still heating .Am looking for a picture to see where the water flows in the block today i remove the dom and looks like there is no water in the midle bores the one that pass under the carb but am not shure if water goes in that one .Am wondering if the head gasket are not the good ones and some of the water hold are block .
When the car runs i look in the rad and see the water flows pretty fast am realy buzzel .also the back holes that run in the dom look dry .
Any help would be good thanks

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Hi Rene. Sorry to hear about your over-heating problem. I have a '67 Beaumont SD
with a big block and had the same problem for the 1st two years I had the car. I figured like you if you don't ask. I requested help also on a different site and got tons of suggestions. I was determined to get rid of this problem so I tried most of the suggestions that made sense. I ended up spending $2000.00 trying to cool the car and nothing worked. At the end of the 2nd season, there was a slight knock in the engine when idleing, so I decided to get it looked at during the winter months. I decided to do a complete engine rebuild and make a few minor improvements while the motor was apart. In the process we found the cause of the over-heating. Water circulation was being restricted. The holes in the block and the heads were about 2" square (about) One of the holes in the block had slag in it closing the hole to about 1/4 inch in diameter. According to the mechanic it was a build of slag right from G.M. when built. The motor was put back together and I have been driving it for 3 seasons, this will be my fourth, trouble free. I run down the highway now at approx. 180 degrees instead of 195. I use to stop at a red light and it would jump up to 210 / 215, and if I got caught thru. a second light because of heavy traffic it would jump up to 225 / 230. Now I stop at railroad crossings and even cruise at Woodward and it climbs to 200 degrees Max.
Hope this helps.
Leo

 

This is a Chevelle SS

-- Edited by 73SC on Wednesday 22nd of April 2009 02:40:32 PM

Hello again did not get to work on the car last night but will tonight need more info. the 4 blade is the good one for this car wright ,

is there any spacer between the rad and the rad suport

how far is the blade from the rad

are the 2 hose on the same side passenger side or the upper hose on the drive side and the lower hose on the passenger side

Any help is good thanks

I can get a new fan sroud they are about 100.00$

-- Edited by 65acadiantoplist on Friday 24th of April 2009 02:34:24 PM

Is there a way you can post a picture of your setup as it is right now? That may trigger some ideas.

this is a pic of what i have thanks for the pic

What temperature is your car running?
Where is the sender?
Is the guage accurate?

Does your light come on?
Does anti-freeze come out of the overflow?