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Post Info TOPIC: Refurbishing or quartz converting a car clock.


Canadian Poncho Superstar!

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Refurbishing or quartz converting a car clock.


Sent a request for a quote to redo the clock Rick sent me.
Here's the reply from Jerry at Clockworks in Wisconsin.

Mark,
 Installation of a quartz movement in your clock would cost $139.95 plus
shipping. This movement should run 10 years without the need for periodic
service and keep much more accurate time than the original type movement.
Unlike some conversions, our installation will not alter the hands or face
of the clock and will run off your car's existing wiring. The original set
stem remains functional. Please keep in mind that a quartz movement is not
original for your clock and may lead to a point deduction should you have
your car judged. It is most noticeable in the motion of the clock's seconds
hand which would move with a smooth sweep as opposed to the original ticking
motion. Conversions carry a 2 year warranty. Turnaround time should not
exceed a few days.

Your original clock movement can be serviced for the flat rate of $49.95
plus return shipping. This includes disassembly of the movement, replacement
of any worn or distorted parts, oiling and calibration. We only ask that the
clock be complete, fully assembled and the movement serviceable. Turnaround
time is usually 24 hours and the warranty is 1 year. There would be a $30
coil charge if the clock's coil is damaged from overheating. You can either
remove the back of the clock and check this yourself (look for any
blackening on the coil windings) or send the extra $30 and we will refund it
if the coil is not needed.

If your clock was made by "Borg" you are in luck! We still have a complete
NOS mechanical movement available which we can install in your clock for
$129.95 plus shipping. This is a brand new movement which is no longer being
manufactured and supplies are limited. Since the NOS movement includes new
plates, points, coil and gearing, it can be expected to outlast a
reconditioned movement and carries an 18 month warranty. Turnaround time is
usually 24 hours. You may want to consider taking advantage of the NOS
mechanical movement while it is still available if you opt to keep the clock
ticking as original.

We can polish the lens and recolor the hands if needed at no extra charge.
 
 Return shipping to Canada is $25.
 
 You can pack your clock up and ship it by any means convenient to you. You
can bill the service to MC/Visa, or pay via Paypal (4.5% fee). Sorry, we
cannot accept checks from Canada. For the quickest service possible, please
include a copy of this e-mail with your clock.

Kind regards,
Jerry

I'm thinking I might just spend the minimum and just get the old Borg clock cleaned up and working again. Provided the coil is still good, I'm looking at about $90 or so shipping to and from included. Probably another $100 on top of that for the full conversion.
The more I think of it, poor timekeeping be dammed... I'd still like to hear the clock tick. I can still fondly remember the sound of the clock ticking in my moms 65 Galaxie 500.

Anybody have any experiance getting their clock redone?

Mark.


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A Poncho Legend!

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I've brought those clocks back to life with a good cleaning, light lube and sanding the points. Why not try that first?

Todd


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Is there anything I need to know before I open it Todd? I'd rather not ruin it.
Like... how do I get adjustment knob off the shaft for starters, lol!no

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 I am going to add a note on these clocks... The shaft does NOT come off without pulling the adjustment gear clear off the shaft!!! Ask me how I know?? (mind you, I was only 16-17 years old when I did this, but I still remember it like it was yesterday!)

 Remove the batt + nut from the back, peel back the little peen overs and disassemble from there... Then clean the points, I lightly sprayed GM pent fluid over the entire assembly, mauually opened the points a few times and then bench tested before I assembled...........

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I sent my clock down to a place in the States a couple years ago, can't remember off hand the name, but your prices sound almost the same as what I was quoted. Mine was a Borg clock so I went with the NOS guts and it has been working just great. The fun challenge is having it keep the right time. Sometimes it will sit a couple days and it will loose 15 minutes and then I reset it and a couple days later it will be ahead 10 minutes and then some days it's bang on so it's almost entertainment for me to see how the old ticker is doing. I love the sound of it winding itself up. If you do send it away and the new guts work for you I'd go that route but if I didn't have that choice I wouldn't hesitate to put in a quartz movement. To me that cost is minimal in the overall cost of doing a car and the reward is seen each time you drive it. I am surprised at car shows how few cars have their clocks working. Anyhow good luck.

-- Edited by jmont64 on Friday 23rd of October 2009 12:40:17 AM

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jmont64 wrote:

I sent my clock down to a place in the States a couple years ago, can't remember off hand the name, but your prices sound almost the same as what I was quoted. Mine was a Borg clock so I went with the NOS guts and it has been working just great. The fun challenge is having it keep the right time. Sometimes it will sit a couple days and it will loose 15 minutes and then I reset it and a couple days later it will be ahead 10 minutes and then some days it's bang on so it's almost entertainment for me to see how the old ticker is doing. I love the sound of it winding itself up. If you do send it away and the new guts work for you I'd go that route but if I didn't have that choice I wouldn't hesitate to put in a quartz movement. To me that cost is minimul in the overall cost of doing a car and the reward is seen each time you drive it. I am surprised at car shows how few cars have their clocks working. Anyhow good luck.




 You know, you're absolutely right, it's one of the few things you'll spend a small amount on, that you'll actually see and get pleasure from every time you sit in or drive the car. Anything on the dash is money well spent really, isn't it?

 



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If it gains can you not just turn the hands one full turn counterclockwise to slow the regulator down? For a slow clock, one turn forward, or as many as it takes to get it close.

What kind of lube would you use in the clock?

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You can also try this, I took the clock out of car, held it "face"up & sprayed in the light holes with WD 40 keep it face up fot 20min. then I "bench tested" it!!!  Started right up & has been working for yrs. now. Does lose some time over a few days so I will try the turn ahead 24 hrs & see if it picks up,   Pete

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You can buy good lube at hobby shops for model trains (Labelle is a brand). Works great.


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I'll need to get the lense off this clock, it needs a polish on the inside.
A small gear will need to be pulled off the shaft to get the knob and stem out of the front?

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69Laurentian wrote:

I've brought those clocks back to life with a good cleaning, light lube and sanding the points. Why not try that first?

Todd



Haaa, Thanks Todd, Just took mine out, did what you said, and it worked!
Man that feels good
Finally I got away with something basically for free for about 2-3 hours of time

 



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I'm glad it worked for ya!

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I wound up taking the clock out and putting in an indash Tach instead.

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Me too

dash.jpg

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OK, I have my clock out. I am going to try to lube it, it appears very clean.   The clock hasnt worked since I bought the car last fall. I doubt if its ever been messed with. I wonder if someone can tell me how the points work, they cannot make contact in the position that the clock has stopped in. Does the clock run by its own works until the points touch and then its 'wound' til the points touch again? I will spray it and bench test it today, and hope for the best.  Is the clock housing used as the ground? (only one connection at back post). The clock and lens were removed from under the dash. I'll be able to clean the lens if nothing else.

1. Remove 5/16 nut from center back of clock housing.
2. Slide wire off of exposed post.
3. Slide washer off of same post.
4. Remove all three 5/16 hex heads joining clock to dash. (the hidden one on top is longest)
5. Let clock down enough to expose light connection in behind, and unplug  it, and the clock is out.
6. Pull on winder and grasp with needle nose pliers to unwind and remove to knob.
7. There are 4 bent tabs holding the clock together, unbend and you are in.



UPDATE- As soon as the spray hit, the clock worked until the points closed. Damn, I love when a repair is free, and with these ole ponchos, it seems everything was made to last or to be easily fixed.

-- Edited by Turn2Stone on Tuesday 27th of April 2010 09:27:44 AM

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Poncho Master!

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Except for brand new cars, and then they didn't last too long, I've never had a car from the 50's 60's or 70's where the clock worked. Never really bothered me, I knew what time I left, I knew when I had to be there, I knew how far it was and therefore how long it took, so time along the way wasn't needed. And if I got stopped by a cop or had a flat tire or something, I wasn't going to be on time anyway and there wasn't anything I could do about it at that point, so again, the time didn't matter.

Here's what's in my 56 clock hole in the dash:

Clock_delete.JPG

smile.gif

However I will remember the great information you guys have given, and if I ever get another car of that vintage and I decide to get the clock working, I'll follow your lead!

Dave

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  1964 Acadian Beaumont SD convert, 283 - factory 195 hp, Powerglide, 3.08 10-bolt - Cruiser

  2012 US-built crew cab truck - Daily Driver and Boat Trailering



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My clock is back in same day, and keeping time fine so far. I ran it on the bench with a battery and watched the points in action, cool setup. I blew a fuse for not disconnecting the battery when I installed it, but all is good now. I would be disappointed with anything else in there, but would if I had to. Now the lens is too clear, and I have to do something with the speedo lens.



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Just did the same thing with 69 Beaumont clock but I used Four way Action contact  lube and cleaner. Worked right away. Its a cool thing to watch the coil click and wind the action every 60 secounds.



-- Edited by Beaumont4008 on Thursday 18th of October 2012 04:08:01 PM

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i will give it a try on this NOS one i bought that only runs for a few secounds after the points close
Nova on buth the hands and face are interchangable..

chevy 2 clock_(1024_x_768).jpgclock inners_(1024_x_768).jpg



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Hey guys. Luv the chatter. I am also doing a 65  Pont CS and my clock does not work. Will try the cleaning first but am leaning to sending it away to have it nicely refurbished. My thoughts are as was stated, small price to have car lookin good and love the sound of the ole Tick tock.  Have another question, where can I get the steering wheel redone to original? I'm in the atates all winter so no isasue with south of the boarder.Curteousy of Kevin (Meteor1) I have a spare wheel to redo.   



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post picture of wheel.


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... You know, you're absolutely right, it's one of the few things you'll spend a small amount on, that you'll actually see and get pleasure from every time you sit in or drive the car. Anything on the dash is money well spent really, isn't it?

 


 Well if that's the case I really should get at my dash this winter considering... the needle fell off my speedo about 15 years ago... my clock doesn't work... the dash lights are all burnt out...



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replace them with LED's you can even make your cluster look great in colour....

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03cts sport wrote:

I really should get at my dash this winter considering... the needle fell off my speedo about 15 years ago... my clock doesn't work... the dash lights are all burnt out...


 What about the "ejection seat" button ... does it function?



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