lots of fun building engine. most of the time its waiting for parts. i picked up a chrome pan for my 454, i've been told to scuff up the lip for a better seal. too bads its not a 454. i have a spare set of brand new KB .030 over plus rings.
If I put a 454 in it then I'd have to put a Yammy (Yamaha) sticker on the car..(Long story unless you are a "Buddy What'sisname and the Other Feller's fan..they are a comedy troupe out of Newfoundland)
I found a chrome pan at Softy's and for a great price..I just have to wait for the shipment to come in next week. Called the Engine Shop this morning...just waiting on their quote...
Softy's quote on the rebuild kit was $365... so hopefully they can do better...
have you dicided on your pistons yet, i would not advise cast the cost of forged or hyper compared to durability is well worth it and they are light, and balanced dead on if they are something like wiescos
Cast pistons will work absolutely fine for a driver or a performance engine. They are soft and forgiving. Hyperutectic pistons are crap-if anything hits them they shatter like glass. Unlike a 409 truck piston that will take a 5/16 carb stud 9 times in the crown and still be OK to use. Forged pistons need more clearance and are totally overkill for this build. I didn't think he was putting a hidden nitrous kit on the 67?
If I had the tools to do it I would. That is why as soon as a piston came out the rod cap was put back on and the pistons were set out in order by the side they came out of. As I said they will be tagged before going to the shop, which is exactly how RCAF mechs do it before they send aircraft engine parts out for machining. However, I will ask Mark to mark everything for me...
Use a punch and do the rod and cap with a one for #1 and so on.. or just make sure the tags stay on and the machinist will stamp them for you as when he resizes them he will loose the tags and they then get mixed up, and thats not good
