The motor and 6 way Transmission.

Today, I tested motor/ transmission and found one trans output constantly driving. Motor runs quiet and smooth.

The transmission functions as such; The input shaft comes into the case between the two larger gears driving them in the same direction. The third smaller gear is coupled to the center gear and runs opposite. All gears freewheel on their shafts whenever the motor runs. When energized, the tri solenoid assembly through which each gear shaft runs, drives a dog towards the gear, engaging with the gear dogs and driving the shaft. A spring disengages the dog when the solenoid is de energized. The dogs slide on a double flat section of the shaft and always turn with the shaft. 

What I found was the upper gear in the picture has seized onto the shaft, and could not freewheel. This caused the shaft to spin regardless of the solenoid/dog actuation. 

A complete cleaning was in order. What I though was rust on the shafts was actually petrified grease. Easily cleaned. Everything looked great inside. Again, I'm impressed with the quality and precision of the components inside this unit. Sadly you just cannot find this anymore...

Broken down into the components,

Don't forget the small plastic washer behind the dog. Notice the flats on the shaft and the shape of the inside diameter of the dog,

Clean, lightly greased and ready to close,

Time to test. No good switch, so a simple 3 way shunt is required. Used a 12 GA wire. I screwed the switch plug onto the bench so it would stay put. 6 tests..all good! Note; when the time come to run the entire assembly, a larger positive and negative wire will be needed. Just running with no load warms the small test leads. The big red lead is there for a reason! I labled the trans drives to make it easy to ensure the correct drives came on...they did!

Here's a schematic for testing. I think it covers most 6 way 60's seat side mounted switches. Just get power at the red, pick the motor forward or reverse, then choose your drive solenoid. Simple! The motor relay works perfect.

So the test was good. Now lets look at this sad switch.

It comes apart by simply depressing 4 tabs and easing the contact body out. Be carefull..the tabs can fly when they come out!

All pieces. Although it cannot be seen here, the center ball of the switch lever section is broken in half. Lever is missing.

Detail of the contact points. Dirty, corroded somewhat. Can they be fixed?

GM Schematic that I altered a bit. My wiring colour is to the left. The solenoid position in the the gear case is 1, 3, 2 on mine.

I understand now that separate swich components can be bought, but if from China...whats the point?

Interesting that GM made even the switch servicable!

Cheers, Mark

 

 

 

 

-- Edited by cdnpont on Monday 31st of December 2012 01:03:07 PM

That is a great presentation of pictures and text!  You must be a pro at this stuff.   I actually have one of these units for a bucket but I was afraid to touch it but with your pics it may just be a project.  I picked up a good switch on ebay for not too much a while ago as mine was broken too if that helps.

Agreed Mark, great job on showing us your steps along the way. I don't even have a power seat but thoroughly enjoy following your thread. Thanks for that.

Thanks guys,

I really just needed somthing to tinker with, and this fits the bill perfectly..

Now, if I could just find a AstroBench to put it under....

Keep me posted on that one Carl!

Man, you can eat off those seat tracks!

I love bringing this stuff back Pascal! Perfect little task for the winter.

There was a guy from Northern Ontario, South River I think, that would restore and sell complete units on Ebay a few years ago.

They'd go for around $450. Bid on one but lost. So there is some money in it, but certainly no living.

 

But if any of us come across any units or parts in the wreckers, we should snag them before it's too late. Aside from a motor, switch and relay, I've never seen any replacement parts available for these things.

It lives! HD video shot on my new Nikon J1 I got for xmas.

But now I've discovered the base of the tracks are shorter in length than "B" body tracks. Mine are 8 and 10". I've got a lead on another set and a switch on ebay. 

I think I can just change the base...I have no clue what these are from, but the cable lengths are full size. 

 

B Body,

I think I might just add a piece to the base I have like you suggest above Carl.

 

Here's a little more detail on the switch,

As you can see, each switch section has two large contact points. They are the high current points for the motor drive, the relay trigger contacts are the small forked parts between the main points. The entire upper copper plate is powered through the switch feed pin. Push the switch, it contacts the copper plate, pushes that down onto the spring steel arm with the contact. Both then move down contacting the the small relay contact arm, then the upper contact connects with the lower main point. I imagine you get a little arc at the point each time it contacts and releases.

Remember using a older GM power seat...you fail to move the button just far enough, and all you hear is a slight "Click". Thats the solenoid relay picking up first. A little further pressure on the switch and the seat moves as full switch point contact is made. The relay point picks up just slightly before the motor, which makes sense, as you'd prefer that the trans dogs are engaged before the motor drives. It's my theory and I'm sticking to it!

Carl Stevenson wrote:

---

The power Stratobench for your car is in my favourite wrecking yard in Minnesosta, 3 hours south of me. I'll see how much he wants next trip. 67 Bonneville Brougham 4 door hardtop has it.

---

I pulled the power track from the Bonneville on a trip south this weekend. I didn't have room to bring the whole seat home in the Fleetwood, or I would have! Now to rebuild it and then I will have a power Strato for the black car.

You will be amazed how easy they are to do. Don't be scared to tackle them. Just come here and ask if you need help.

When you are done them, you'll say "that was easy", I can pretty much guarantee it.

Hi All,
I finally rebuilt and installed the power seat track for Strato-Bench. Thanks to this thread, i encountered NO problems and it functions fabulously!! I still need to blast the side panel where the switches go. Then send that panel to the body shop to match the red paint.
Thanks again!!