Well, I have the tires, shocks, springs and stabilizer bars and panhard rod. As well as the brakes and booster.
So, for about $1500 I should be able to complete the job Carl. Yea, pricey but it should be worth it in the end. And it can always all be put back to stock if needed.
Personally, I changed the bushings simply because they were worn, sloppy, dried up and cracked - as were the body mounts. Went with stock equivalent, not the neo type (also heard they're too rugged) Added discs mainly for the element of reliability and safety having dual master. Went with OD trans mainly for economy, as it's a cruiser not a racer. I like the end results and, IMO don't think it needs thousands in body work, and I also know it does insult those who stick with #s original and those against modifying, but that's just too bad. Also not expecting to gain value in the car, just enjoy the car and working on it. Again, just my
-- Edited by 1965CS on Monday 21st of January 2013 10:51:57 AM
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
I've spoken to a few guys that have changed the control arm bushings to the "urethane" ones & they have said it rode like a "dump truck" ??? Anyone have this happen?? I used the stock rubber ones when I re-did the 64 catalina frt. end after i heard this comment!!!!
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Some times I wake up GRUMPY, but today I let her sleep in !!!!!!!!BLACKSTOCK Ont.
dualquadpete wrote:I've spoken to a few guys that have changed the control arm bushings to the "urethane" ones & they have said it rode like a "dump truck" ???I've heard the same about urethane engine mounts ... more engine vibrations throughout the vehicle.
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Prince Edward Island
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
Well, I have the tires, shocks, springs and stabilizer bars and panhard rod. As well as the brakes and booster.
So, for about $1500 I should be able to complete the job Carl. Yea, pricey but it should be worth it in the end. And it can always all be put back to stock if needed.
Thats not bad But not everyone is as talented as you (mechanical lol) Probably add another 1000 for labor?
I responded to the car being a 4500 lb convertible I often wonder about trying to make it a "handler"
Unless it has mega power the results don't often add to the value...
I know I know everyones taste are different and its their money.....
If the car is solid and body work is done, then suspension would be next
I often cringe when I see fellows pouring thousands of dollars into motor and transmisions and disc brakes and rims etc
and still have a car needing 6-10 worth of body work....
actually none of my business... lol But sometime some old timers experience can help save some bucks..
I've spoken to a few guys that have changed the control arm bushings to the "urethane" ones & they have said it rode like a "dump truck" ??? Anyone have this happen?? I used the stock rubber ones when I re-did the 64 catalina frt. end after i heard this comment!!!!
Again its personal tastes
I figure if the car arrived 40 years down the road with originals... then stock is fine...
Sometimes stock bushings plus better shocks and a sway bar, are alls thats needed
427carl wrote:I often cringe when I see fellows pouring thousands of dollars into motor and transmisions and disc brakes and rims etc and still have a car needing 6-10 worth of body work....
actually none of my business... lol But sometime some old timers experience can help save some bucks..
Your "experience" is bang on! I'm 2/3s your age (well a bit older ) and I think the same way.
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Prince Edward Island
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
Like any hobby, it will cost money to play. Some people spend 3K a year on golf, and do they have anything to show for it at years end?
So to spend a couple grand a year making incremental improvments to a old car, knowing that except to myself, the cars value will never increase is fine by me. At least I can get my hands dirty doing it, and actually have somthing to show for it, somthing I can actually be proud of and drive every day. But thinking that it is some kind of investment, that you'll be able to recover all you put into it is agreed off base.
Start with the small things first, and yes, it obviously makes a huge difference if you can diy. These cars can be made to handle very well.
It's an expensive hobby like any else, but if you have some disposable income, go for it if it makes you happy I say!
Cheers, Mark
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
Personally, I changed the bushings simply because they were worn, sloppy, dried up and cracked - as were the body mounts. Went with stock equivalent, not the neo type (also heard they're too rugged) Added discs mainly for the element of reliability and safety having dual master. Went with OD trans mainly for economy, as it's a cruiser not a racer. I like the end results and, IMO don't think it needs thousands in body work, and I also know it does insult those who stick with #s original and those against modifying, but that's just too bad. Also not expecting to gain value in the car, just enjoy the car and working on it. Again, just my
cdnpont wrote:
Like any hobby, it will cost money to play. Some people spend 3K a year on golf, and do they have anything to show for it at years end?
So to spend a couple grand a year making incremental improvments to a old car, knowing that except to myself, the cars value will never increase is fine by me. At least I can get my hands dirty doing it, and actually have somthing to show for it, somthing I can actually be proud of and drive every day. But thinking that it is some kind of investment, that you'll be able to recover all you put into it is agreed off base.
Start with the small things first, and yes, it obviously makes a huge difference if you can diy. These cars can be made to handle very well.
It's an expensive hobby like any else, but if you have some disposable income, go for it if it makes you happy I say!
Cheers, Mark
I really do agree Some waste too much time keeping track of every penny.. and then try to sell later, "moaning" I've got xxx dollars IN it ..lol
Many of my cars over the years were "payday to payday" cars Much smarter to buy finished , but I could only afford to buy 1 piece at a time...
So thats a good resoultion... If the cars a keeper... don't keep track of the money right?
I've also got probably 12k into a 7k car. Have no fear as they say!
Back to the suspension Jeff,
I think your biggest bang for the buck would be to simply add a rear bar. Next to a new quick ratio box, modern tires, I think the bar hands down changes the feel more than any other item.
More up to snuff springs and shocks, a good high caster alignment, good tires... and as long as all your bushings aren't sloppy, you'll have a worthy road machine.
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
With regards to the poly or Just Suspension style bushings, I can say with stock shocks my 70 GTO pretty soft even with HO springs in it. Adding gas charged shocks could very well make a ride difference in car that was not designed for them.
I to have heard the statement that the poly increases ride harshness but I have never had anyone come clean on the whole suspension set up. The suspension is integral part of the vehicle and should be only modified to suit your taste in performance. If your intent on hitting the track and modify your suspension for that application don't bitch that it rides like a hay wagon on the street. On the flip side, you like the ultra soft 70's big car ride don't expect awesome times at the track.
Last again back to the poly bushing, insure they are grease able as they do get squeaky after a while.
ill tell you guys something, i bang hard on the wagon,and i switched the front over to urathane i would never go back, the front shocks are still stock the backs are KYB s on rubber bushings, its a bit of a mish mash but i replace it when its needed and when i dont need the car for work so things dont get done very often.
I added to all new bushings a set of CPP classic performance part of 11/2" drop coil spindles and a set of red Koni shocks ..and finally an adjustable rear panhard bar . The 65 convertible is now really straight on the streets and handle with the fast ratio steering gear box great in the mountains and on highway crusising..however you drive 60 mph or 110 mph ..a great swap are 7x14 or 7x15" wheels like the rally wheels ..a little more wide track ...