Carl Stevenson wrote:

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And we love reading these posts!

Nice work Mark. That is going to be one cool interior...

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Ditto.

... and Mark's the man to do it!

Job is pretty much done. But I'ts going to need a new horizontal (forward and backwards) actuator. The bushings (or case) has opened up on top, where the drive gear bushing is pressed into the die cast. The gear flops around causing the worm to loose contact. There seems no way to really repair it as its a sealed unit. I'll post a little more on that later.

I think they all probably suffer from this, as the actuator is pretty delicate. In later years, the 4 way bucket seat power unit went to double horizontal drives.

One more thing, I originally was using the Rust Oleum rust remover, but it proved way too aggressive, and the action could not be stopped. I switched to Dominion Sure Seal rust remover, which when dried, has a converting element which seals and stops the action. Much better. For heavy rust, use the Rust Oleum first, then the Dominion product.  On heavy rust the Dominion will tend to blacken or convert the heavy stuff before total removal.  The dominion Sure Seal product is available at CTC.

All in all, it looks pretty good. Anyone have a spare belt cover?

Sure didn't look like that when I put it in the box....

nice work!....and thanks for sharing the detailing steps.

i'm prepping  the a-body tracks for my lemans,  your prep looks far better than just rattle canning them!

Carl Stevenson wrote:

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I'll try to check later Mark, I know I have some spares. There's very minor differences in some of these, I went through this when I was doing my Strato Bench track.

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Looks the same Carl, at least as the one pictured.

That picture was just from Ebay Carl, but I went and checked mine. Its the same as the Ebay picture. It's where the factory sets the gear lash. Should be a plastic screw head in there.

I tried different settings with that screw...no change. Feels like there's a bad spot on the big gear. Gets rough and slips in a section at each complete revolution.

One more thing I've learned is that this actuator is adjustable in relation to the rack (lower assembly and legs)). The mounting holes in the seat frame base are elongated, as it the punch out where the the little double chevron shaped casting comes through. You put the actuator in place, lightly tighten the two bolts, and put a screwdriver in the slot between the chevron and frame. Twist the screwdriver lightly forcing the gear in the unit to mesh tighter with the rack. Tighten the two bolts. Do this until no forward and back play can be felt between upper and lower frame. If you don't set it, you could feel the seat move slightly when stopping and starting (annoying).

The 6 way bench setup horizontal actuator uses a tough little spring to hold the correct mesh tension. The actuator is only bolted on one side.

Anyway, sorry for the off topic Carl, I'm saying that difference shouldn't affect anything. Worth a try!

Cheers, Mark

I think the little single actuator was never up to moving a Large B Body sized guy back and forth.

Think about it, all the weight of the seat and seatee being shifted by that tiny little worm gear!