Just checked my oil in my 350, and it really looked filthy black. So I just had it changed. When I put it away last fall, I added a little oil, and it looked pretty clean. I run Mobile1 10/30.
I've had it out for the last 3 weeks, and have put some pretty fair miles on it. Now, with the aluminum rad, even on the hottest days, even stuck in traffic, she never goes over 200. But when it's colder out, the temp can vary between as low as 150 up to 180. It's an AutoMeter mechanical temp gauge so I believe it's accurate.
The engine has, I believe a 190 degree T-Stat. Do I have T-Stat options...say to 210 degrees on this motor? Will this actually solve it running too cold?
My gut tells me that this is just way too cold to actually burn anything off, and is not doing the engine any good.
Any thoughts?
Cheers Mark
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
I boiled it before I installed it to confirm just that, and it popped fully open, and fully closed when it cooled.
No temp gun. But I do believe the gauge It's a quality thermocouple type. The bulb is located into the intake by the T Stat housing. And when you pop the hood when it reads 160 or so, the engine does feel cold. I mean... it's hot..er, but in no way scalding. Not even near 200.
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
Just checked my oil in my 350, and it really looked filthy black. So I just had it changed. When I put it away last fall, I added a little oil, and it looked pretty clean. I run Mobile1 10/30.
I've had it out for the last 3 weeks, and have put some pretty fair miles on it. Now, with the aluminum rad, even on the hottest days, even stuck in traffic, she never goes over 200. But when it's colder out, the temp can vary between as low as 150 up to 180. It's an AutoMeter mechanical temp gauge so I believe it's accurate.
The engine has, I believe a 190 degree T-Stat. Do I have T-Stat options...say to 210 degrees on this motor? Will this actually solve it running too cold?
My gut tells me that this is just way too cold to actually burn anything off, and is not doing the engine any good.
Any thoughts?
Cheers Mark
Most guys would kill for a cooling system that keeps the car at 150-180-200 Stop fussing and drive it like you stole it oh and buy some good oil like Pennzoil Platium
Is you heater fan turned on when its running cold? and is your t-stat the type with a small bypass hole in it? You could just put cardboard in front and foot too the floor
-- Edited by hawkeye5766 on Tuesday 22nd of April 2014 04:45:49 PM
You're right Carl...maybe I shouldn't worry. It's a nice thing to have...great cooling when it's roasting out. But on a day like today, I'll be lucky to see 180 at idle, down to 150 at cruise.
I don't think the T Stat had the hole. It's was a GM part if I remember right. An the fan is off. Decent heat from the floor when called for. Doesn't feel cold.
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
To me, if you are seeing 150 at crusing speed that stat is not working. You should have more engine heat than that.
One thing to keep in mind though, in the 60's the standard GM stat was a 180 for a long time in a lot of applications. 195 was considered borderline overheating. We started running engines hotter to try to improve on efficiency and emissions, so I've been told.
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
After I installed the BIG BLOCK for added torque and incredible acceleration, I worried about heating issues so I got a IR hand held. they work great. My factory gauge is ok up to a point then it goes wonky. I used the IR to set the gauge with resistors. I ran gauges simultaneously at intake and head and as Clint pointed out the head gives a higher reading and actually a truer reading of what is going on and is generally the factory location for sending units anyway. I also run a 190 stat but as other have said this is mainly for emissions. What I found was I needed a higher capacity rad so I got aluminum high capacity three core and the problems were solved. In your case I believe it is your sending unit location and perhaps a bad stat.
Another thing to check is the rad cap with your new rad ... is it the right pressure cap?
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Prince Edward Island
'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.
and buy some good oil like Pennzoil Platium