Another thing I was going to mention which probably doesn't apply to you but may well to someone else on here happened to me last year. I have never had any heating issues before but did on a couple occasions last year did so was surprised as we drive in the mid 30s here for much of the summer. I was talking to my neighbour about it and he is familiar with my car. The problem I had created was when I put a bug screen in front of my car and it impedes the air flow by a substantial amount. His friend had done the same thing when they had gone south and when that was popped off everything was solved. Depends I guess too what type of screen you use, I just hate cleaning all the bugs out of the rad. I may have to try find a coarser screen, mine was just like a door screen. Just a little thing that might help someone.
Thanks for the replys guys.The engine has about 650 miles on it after the rebuild and think your rite,it could be tight still and creating more heat.There is an enclosed fan shroud that is there as well.In that Team Chevelle article he says a glycol/water mix at no more than 30/70 and did take a heat gun and the rad is hotter on the top inch or so of the rad so im thinking its probley in need of a cleaning.I think it might be the original as it is a Harrison 3 core.Rad shop said it would probley be a leaker if we even attempted to clean it.Money probley better spent on a new 4 core,shroud and a hd clutch fan and a new tstat as that article said to try.That old rad i bet is probley 80% of my trouble.Getting that tranny cooler off that rad might make a difference as well??
And you know what i have what i would say is a screen that is similar to a door screen on mine.I bet if you took the screen off, get the tranny cooler off,30/70 glycol mix, run a 190-195 tstat those little things might add up to a 5-10 degree difference??
And you know what i have what i would say is a screen that is similar to a door screen on mine.I bet if you took the screen off, get the tranny cooler off,30/70 glycol mix, run a 190-195 tstat those little things might add up to a 5-10 degree difference??
Now that you mention you too have a screen that may well be your whole problem. When you look at those door screens closely there is a huge restriction of air flow. Air flow is key to your cooling.
I appreciate your comment jmont64, I am only expressing what actually happened to my start up, ran cooler with water only.
You are right in that with water you are able to take more of the heat away but the boiling point increases with the addition of antifreeze. Interesting info being shared here.
-- Edited by jmont64 on Sunday 10th of May 2015 11:47:35 AM
Had this problem last summer ,swore up & down it was the rad, but had it checked A-OK, changed the water pump, still running hot!! Found out the Vac. diaphragm for vac. advance wasn't working & it was running 230+ on the hwy!!!! Changed that & now runs around 190 on a hot day with a 160 T/stat. Just a thought, everyone mentioned timing, but not the Advance???
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Some times I wake up GRUMPY, but today I let her sleep in !!!!!!!!BLACKSTOCK Ont.
I agree with jmont64, however, not all glycol solutions are created equal and the point I was trying to make is that water is basic, not man made. I realize automotive antifreeze is designed to boil at 260 degrees F, key word is designed. The use of water would provide a easy simple starting point before reconfiguring mechanical components.
Sorry for putting in my two cents worth of ACTUAL experience, any way Kevin best of luck with this one.
-- Edited by DEJ on Sunday 10th of May 2015 05:19:51 PM
I started my 454 last year with the original two row rad rebuilt to a three row down flow. My transmission cooling has been separated from the main radiator. I did this mainly because of all the hype about BB's over heating. I put a 195 degree thermostat in the intake , left the recirculation hose on the H20 pump, I ran a derralli dual fan (4000 cfm electric fan system, 1000 cfm per 100 cu in rule of thumb).
The catch here is I started my car with WATER only. I did this knowing I was going to flush the engine and refill with the correct prestone & water solution before I put it away for the Winter. I am glad I did , the sludge that came out of the engine base plugs was incredible.
The learning here is that, I drove my car from mid June to late September with water only, the engine had a hard time to even hit 170 degrees!@#$$%. I based this on the boiling point of water being higher than glycol. I flushed the water and ran the car with a total dilution of only 8 liters of prestone. My car now runs at around 195 - 200 degrees (mechanical gauge / top of Intake Manifold). However, my winter storage issue with this dilution ratio my glycol meter reaches only -20.
In short, I believe excessive glycol in your cooling system can cause over heating problems because glycol boils at a lower temperature than water.
Good luck with your project.
Dale
What is the total capacity of your cooling system, or did you happen to measure what you put in? I had no idea those cooling systems hold that much. Based on the -20 (is that in Celsius or Fahrenheit?) I am guessing it's gotta be over 20 litres?
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
