66 beaumont 3 speed shifter problems.

blackbird307 · Veteran Member

66 beaumont 3 speed shifter problems.

blackbird307 · Veteran Member

My feeling is the whole thing is no good, I may as well just buy a new one. IF I CAN FIND ONE....

4SPEED427 · A Poncho Legend!

So to clarify, you need a 64 or older Beaumont 3 speed manual steering column?

jmont64 · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

I think I've got a 64 3 speed column in the back shed if that will work. Where are you? It would be a 64 or newer wouldn't it be?

65 SD L79 · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

will it shift into reverse easier with engine turned off?

Beaumont4008 · Uber Guru

Check to see how sloppy your rods are at the column and trany levers. If there is a lot of play you may have to put bushings in the levers to tighten them up. Then reset rods in neutral position on the trany. Happened to me in the past and that got me back in the game.

Ian

blackbird307 · Veteran Member

My car is a 1966 Pontiac Beaumont. I am not too sure what year my steering wheel is.

I can shift into reverse with engine either on or off, but I have the mentioned problem. There is an adjuster, with 3 bolts on it that moves the two levers apart. I played with that adjustment, but doesn't seem to make a difference. Almost as if it was something to do with the internals within the column.

Does anyone know how if I could put a steering column from another year into my 1966? I read something about chevelles having a steering column in 1966 that was different than the newer and older ones.

Thanks!

Edit: So there are three things I found which I can adjust on the steering column..

1. The rods themselves.
From what I can observe, these are adjusted to compensate any changes that are made below, if needed... Also adjusted to set how high the shifter is. Longer rod adjustment move shifter closer to ceiling, shorter moves shift closer to floor. You can actually arrange the rods so that 1st and reverse can be swapped with 2nd and 3rd so that 1st and reverse is push instead of pull. Doing this requires modifications of the rod lengths, otherwise they will intersect with each other.

2. The distance the selector travels from lever to lever.
This controls the distance from one lever to another. If this is adjusted too far out, the selector can slip between the two levers and go out of travel, rendering the shifter free to move up and down without shifting anything. Too close, the selector grabs both levers, you can't shift two levers at once, so the shifter will simply not move at all.

3. The distance the levers are from the shifter.
There is a clamp the stops the assembly from moving towards the steering box. Once this clamp is loosened, the entire assembly can move further down. The assembly is adjusted by tapping it with a hammer in either direction. Assembly cannot move toward gear box without clamp being loosened. If assembly is moved upwards too far, the levers band into the
firewall when shifted. If the assembly moves too far towards the gear box, the bottom most lever will be out of each from the selector.

4. Steering box length adjustment.
Here you can determine how close the steering wheel is too you, it also determines the distance the assembly is close to the firewall. I still do not see the implications of adjusting this for my situation, I believe this is universal to all steering columns. For me the steering box was at the shortest length possible.

My theory is that the selector is grabbing onto the bottom most lever (first and reverse), just barely, requiring me to pull the shifter harder just so it will grab the lever. The shifter is shifting in a position which it isn't meant to be shifting in. If I can move the assembly higher, I may be able to move shifter with ease. But my problem is that I can't move it further because my levers will hit the firewall.

I am looking for a fourth adjustment where I can move the steering wheel (upper steering column) closer to the dash. Therefor moving the shifter closer to the assembly allowing me to make further adjustments. But I haven't been able to figure that out.

-- Edited by blackbird307 on Friday 25th of September 2015 08:24:31 PM

-- Edited by blackbird307 on Saturday 26th of September 2015 02:32:25 PM

blackbird307 · Veteran Member

I seem to have fixed the problem by playing with mentioned above, IE the assembly position (3.) and the internal lever cam adjustment (2.). It still is loud when shifting from 1st to reverse or other way around. But it isn't difficult and doesn't shake the entire column, or give me the feeling something is going to snap. That being said I'm never going to touch my steering column adjustments again after that heart wrenching ordeal.

When making the adjustments my shirt grabbed onto the turn signal lever and broke the switch inside. I figure I may aswell replace since it might also be linked to my horn randomly going on its own while I turn my steering wheel, sometimes when it should be biggrin

. I found this on summit racing, will it be compatible with my steering column? I don't know if Beaumont and Chevelles had similar steering column designs. The fact that the dashes are significantly different leads me to believe that it may not fit.

There is a number imprinted on my current switch 69570 along with GUIDE

www.summitracing.com/int/parts/aww-00911051/applications/year/1966/make/chevrolet/model/chevelle
This is for a GTO, Lemans, but also looks very similar to mine
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1965-1966-Pontiac-GTO-Turn-Signal-Switch-BPC-/380875553105

I found this on Ecklers chevelle, same year, but the number DOES NOT match
http://www.ecklerschevelle.com/chevelle-turn-signal-switch-guide-for-cars-without-tilt-steering-column-1965-1966.html

Thanks!!

-- Edited by blackbird307 on Saturday 26th of September 2015 06:58:35 PM

jmont64 · Canadian Poncho Superstar!

blackbird307 wrote:
I seem to have fixed the problem by playing with mentioned above, IE the assembly position (3.) and the internal lever cam adjustment (2.). It still is loud when shifting from 1st to reverse or other way around. But it isn't difficult and doesn't shake the entire column, or give me the feeling something is going to snap. That being said I'm never going to touch my steering column adjustments again after that heart wrenching ordeal.

When making the adjustments my shirt grabbed onto the turn signal lever and broke the switch inside. I figure I may aswell replace since it might also be linked to my horn randomly going on its own while I turn my steering wheel, sometimes when it should be. I found this on summit racing, will it be compatible with my steering column? I don't know if Beaumont and Chevelles had similar steering column designs. The fact that the dashes are significantly different leads me to believe that it may not fit.

There is a number imprinted on my current switch 69570 along with GUIDE

www.summitracing.com/int/parts/aww-00911051/applications/year/1966/make/chevrolet/model/chevelle
This is for a GTO, Lemans, but also looks very similar to mine
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1965-1966-Pontiac-GTO-Turn-Signal-Switch-BPC-/380875553105

I found this on Ecklers chevelle, same year, but the number DOES NOT match
http://www.ecklerschevelle.com/chevelle-turn-signal-switch-guide-for-cars-without-tilt-steering-column-1965-1966.html

Thanks!!

-- Edited by blackbird307 on Saturday 26th of September 2015 06:58:35 PM

Just a heads up from my experience. If you can find a used one, they are much sturdier than the repos. When I restored my car 8-10 years ago I put in a repro and it lasted a couple years after I started driving it and then I replaced it with a used original and it is way stronger and continues to do the job until now. I don't have one for sale but there most likely are some available maybe even on this forum. Can always place a wanted ad in that area.