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Post Info TOPIC: Need help from electrical experts regarding ignition problem


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Need help from electrical experts regarding ignition problem


I'll give a little run down on what happened last week and where I'm at now.  Took the car for a 5 minute drive and 15 minutes later when I left the car it started but stalled when I was backing out.  Thought it was still cool so I gave it a couple pumps with no luck.  Turned her over some more with a couple more pumps and figured I had flooded it.  Battery was getting down so I walked home and came back later in the day to pick it up as I thought it would  be clear from the flooding plus I had a battery to boost it.  Still no luck so I pulled plugs and cleared the cylinders as mind was set that I was flooded.  So everything cleared still no go so had it decked home.  Did a little testing at the coil and I was only getting 4 volts (pertronix) from my direct ignition wire.  Ran a hot wire from the battery to the coil and she fires fine.  Disconnected wire and it continues to run.  Tested it at the coil after with the key on and now I'm reading a full 12+ volts.  Car fires up now okay but will try it again here a little later.  Could it be the ignition as it is looking a little inconsistent right now.  Need some good advice.



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Jerel


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It sounds like your ignition switch contacts are getting corroded, this is the only reason for voltage drop. I had exact problem with my Parisienne years ago, i changed the ignition switch and never had a problem since. I too run pertronix.



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pontiax- (canadian pontiac X frame)1964 Parisienne 2dr. Hardtop ,lagoon aqua metallic (Q) ,421 cid Dart Industries block and heads. 550 hp. 575 ft lb  of torque.

 

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Do you still have the stock wiring Jerel? Should be 9volts through ballast resistor or resistor wire with key on run and 12v while cranking. Losing voltage before coil so could be ign switch/resistor wire/ballast resistor etc. Could also be firewall bulk head plug. If you can get it to go to 4v again,work your way backwards until you get 12v. Also try turning your headlights on....could be a voltage drop with load to main fuse panel.Amperage draws over a long time through a poor connection will cause resistance, so might just happen over a length of time.

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hawkeye5766 wrote:

Do you still have the stock wiring Jerel? Should be 9volts through ballast resistor or resistor wire with key on run and 12v while cranking. Losing voltage before coil so could be ign switch/resistor wire/ballast resistor etc. Could also be firewall bulk head plug. If you can get it to go to 4v again,work your way backwards until you get 12v. Also try turning your headlights on....could be a voltage drop with load to main fuse panel.Amperage draws over a long time through a poor connection will cause resistance, so might just happen over a length of time.


 Yes, basically the stock wiring.  I just cut the original wire that provided the 9v and replaced it with a direct one from the ignition to the coil to provide the 12 for the pertronix.  I have a hunch what Pete said about the contacts in the ignition could well be the cause.  Just checked it now and it is at 12v again.



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Jerel


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could be corrosion on firewall plug....i had issues with mine....i had to use a jumper to eliminate a 1 volt drop to the ignition switch
i think i'm going to replace the whole harness with a upgraded kit(Ron Frances) ....Bob

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bob lewis


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Read the istructions for the pertronix.  i have them too in my 64's.  If i remember correctly, you need to keep your original resistor wire to the coil to provide a lower voltage so the coil does not burn out.  Then run a totally separate new 12v supply from the fuse panel to your pertronix in the distributor.

the pertronix needs the 12 volts, but not the coil.

this might not pertain to you problem, but it might explain some things



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beaucarlo wrote:

could be corrosion on firewall plug....i had issues with mine....i had to use a jumper to eliminate a 1 volt drop to the ignition switch
i think i'm going to replace the whole harness with a upgraded kit(Ron Frances) ....Bob


 Just thinking Bob regarding the firewall plug.  If it was giving me trouble would I not have trouble with it cranking over. Thinking if that drop to 4 volts was coming to the ignition it wouldn't want to turn over neither but it does that fine. 



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Jerel
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jmont64 wrote:
beaucarlo wrote:

could be corrosion on firewall plug....i had issues with mine....i had to use a jumper to eliminate a 1 volt drop to the ignition switch
i think i'm going to replace the whole harness with a upgraded kit(Ron Frances) ....Bob


 Just thinking Bob regarding the firewall plug.  If it was giving me trouble would I not have trouble with it cranking over. Thinking if that drop to 4 volts was coming to the ignition it wouldn't want to turn over neither but it does that fine. 


Crank and run are totally diff circuit. Coil get 12v from back of starter on start/crank circuit. So diff firewall pin.



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