so im on the hiway in the gold car quits second later running again then quits so i try to start it but only runs with starter engaged let go of key quits all the dash warning lites are working and heater moter and stuff just the eng wont run does it sound like ignition switch can i jump a wire to hei distributer from battery to drive it in shop ! so my kid towed me home and tdy it started normally and ran for a few minutes and quit again its full of fuel and pump is good beats me
A buddy mentioned a common problem with the HEI's is the wires to the pickup coil are near the vacuum advance mechanism, and sometimes the mechanism moves the wires.
Disconnect the vacuum hose to the vacuum advance, and see if the car runs. If it runs, hook up the vacuum advance to see if it then stalls.
What Clint said. Seen it many times back in the day. Vacuum advance flexes on the pickup wires. Sometimes they break off completely causing no start. And sometimes they break with the insulation still holding on which will start and die as vacuum pulls them apart. As he said, diagnose by disconnecting the vacuum and should keep running.
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'68 Parisienne 2+2 Convertible Matador Red (Resale Red but not for sale).
thx guys i looked tdy and traced wires from starter to the hei and where there wires come off the firewall and down to the hei the 2 small wires were melted and one was melted apart pulled them apart and twisted it back together and voila its cured i lov easy haha
I'm glad you've worked out your problem, but can I make a suggestion?
Your initial post, and subsequent post are quite hard to read, as they're one big long run on sentence. I don't think you're a new Canadian, and grammar school may have been some time ago, but is it possible to break your posts up in to sentences?
Say....you're not powering your HEI with the old power to the coil wires are you?
I replied to this earlier, but it didn't seem to post.
The original coil setup attained it's power from a resistive wire (which has a braided wrap on it) and also from a yellow wire from the starter to provide a full 12V during cranking. When switching to an HEI, the resistive wire needs to be replaced with standard wire to provide the full 12V to the HEI's internal coil. I fear the resisitive wire is still in place, which lead to it heating up.
The resistive wire comes from the fuse block connector of the engine harness to the coil.
yes cheviac it is connected to the steel braided wire and that is the wire that heated and failed !mind u it took about 20 yrs !but i shall change it ! i that is exactly what happened
-- Edited by danny06 on Friday 3rd of August 2018 03:31:15 PM
sorry for my grammer i didnt know anyone cared if i was writing a resume i would be more punctual !thx for the advice about my problem seventy 2+2 my asian buddy really gets annoyed when i write u instead of you and things like that cus becuse hes trying to learn our writing properly !he ended up with the wrong teacher !me ! haha
Can also check for voltage at dizzy after it dies. If you have voltage at lead wire..dizzy problem. If no voltage....problem before dizzy.
Dizzy = distributor? If so, I've never heard that one before.
Haha! Sounding like us aussies!
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cutting a roof off a four door is NOT a convertible.....
65 Parisienne convertible.one of 49 built for RHD export market,402BBC, T400, 2500 stally, posi rear, upgraded brakes with front discs, FUEL FAST efi custom built by me.
Hey Dan, I think you'd be better off for power for your HEI by running a new line from a fused IGN plug on your fuse block inside the car. Gives you a clean twelve volts when the key is on. The original wires for the old coil on the manifold setup will work, kinda, but will leave you stalled eventually.
you can pull the pin from your bulkhead connector solder in a extra 12 volt non resistance with and keep a points style distributor in the trunk just in case the hei craps out , aftermarket modules or coils. don't worry about your grammer , I don't even spell check anymore.