It clicks normally Brendan. I have running, tail and a dimmable dash, so I know I at least have power coming into the headlight switch. I'm going to check for power in at that dimmer switch plug. If good, I'll shunt the connector power across to low beam out, then high beam out and see if I get lights on either. If no power at dimmer plug then a possible wiring issue between the headlight switch and dimmer.

If lights while shunted at live dimmer plug; bad switch. Test switch. Replace. Delco D808

If no lights while shunted at live dimmer plug;  then it's an issue between that dimmer plug and the lamps themselves. First stop if no; check for power out at the headlamp plug while shunted at dimmer. If power out, then check lamp ground(s).

When done, I'm going to do a quick and cheap dual headlight relay setup near the horn relay as well.

Thanks Carl, I have a 1965 Chassis shop manual. Came with it.

And...we have light!

Turns out it was a bad connection to the dimmer feed terminal. The connection had at some point become resistive and had melted the connector body a wee bit. A quick clean up of all 3 terminals on the dimmer, a deoxit of the plug connectors along with a tiny bit of Copper anti seize and all is good. Goes to show you how much current has to pass this terminal. Doesn't seem too high at 150 watts (4 high beam elements), but through a poor connection on a 14g wire you can see what can happen. Hence the need for relays. Imagine being in a corner at night and loosing the lights!

The car came with two new Sylvania Halogen High/low beams, so I stuck them in. Polished up all the front brightwork.

Never thought of that Vincent. I replaced what appeared to be the original vintage "Remy" switch with a Taiwan knock off.

Truth be told, I never noticed before if the markers were on when trying for headlamps. But I kind of like the look of having them on at the same time as the lamps.

Can always go back to the original switch if I change my mind. Cheers.

Preference prevails to what you like... The only one I ever converted was my '49 2-ton Chev 5-window... And only because I found era correct green cab lights.. I wanted them on with the headlights... and with them, the parks also come on.

Yep, one for high beam, one for low Cliff.

You simply tap into your headlamp harness at the point it passes by from the fender to the rad support. Pick open the wrap, then simply cut the High beam (Black/Green stripe) and Low beam (Tan) wires and splice in the two relays.

The relay power (30) is fed from the horn relay power lug. There is usually room on the bus for another connector. Use a 14g wire minimum. 12g is better. I've been using relays with an integral ATO fuse with good luck. Cheap relays are available in bulk from Amazon.ca.

The relay input or trigger (86) is the firewall side of your cut.

The relay output (87) is the headlight side of your cut.

The relay ground (85) goes to wherever a good body connection is available. The left headlight ground is usually above or near the horn relay. 

There is usually a good hiding spot for the relays somewhere in with the horns if you prefer them hidden. But try to keep them dry and out of the weather.

The improvement in light can be dramatic on a 50 year old B Body, with all the questionable wiring, connections and switches. No more yellow light. It also takes a significant load off the main body feed, light switch, dimmer and wires back out to the relays and will brighten your dash and interior lights, allow the signal flasher to function properly at idle with lamps on, when the alternator output is lower.

Cheers,

I'm actually thinking of putting pre made and mounted kits together with simple instructions, to make it easy for anyone who's interested in doing a quick conversion.

You're right, it can make a huge difference.