Holy! What a great pic Mark. I'm definitely not a mechanic and I've never "properly" rebuilt an engine but I've owned a few and bought a few rebuilds, done quite a lot of re&re's and this sort of stuff.I get your point about second time on for sure.I have bumped one on about thirty years ago but didn't keep it long enough to see if it flew off! You guys are makin me worry about this..I'll have to drill with a jig cause I'm not taking the crank out ..hmmm I bumped it on with grease not loctite.. These next"curiosity pics" are of numbers stamped along the oil pan seal edge on the block. They are between the webs kinda in line with the rods...8,8,9,10,11,12,12,and 13....eight in total. Does anyone know what these might have been? Just a curiosity ( It's who I am) lol!

Ya,the numbers do seem somewhat random. I had in my mind some sort of assembly line sequence as well....I scratched around and found a balancer washer a big thick one that has been with me for decades.I can't believe I found it! I do have a couple of 25/32 drill bits and a 2" 7/16 x 20 grade 8 bolt. 2" is cutting it tight but with some loctite should be ok considering I wasn't even going to go there.....but I just did some reading elsewhere and even though I see guys have done exactly what I just did the consensus seems to be; drill and tap! So I'm going to do it. Free hand on the stand. I also just read that this crank could be forged which can make the drilling a little more tedious than drilling a cast one. Here are the pics of my "hub" ..It's a solid steel no rubber jobby. After reading some it seems some folks are unaware that GM did this back when..

Hi don, no numbers that are visible on this hub. When I was a kid these hubs were how we identified early 283's. Over on another forum I read that some early 327's may have come out with this hub as well....I do see the odd one for sale on ebay. I went ahead and drilled my crank with the hub in place..

Hey Mark, the hardest part I think was gauging how deep to go. Getting started was easy because there was a tapered hole in the end of the crank so the bit naturally centered itself. I had a brand new 13/64 bit so I used that for a pilot hole followed by the 15/64. I used tapcut cutting oil and WD40 and air to blow it clean.I propped my cordless drill in my groin and pulled against the drill by grabbing onto the rockers near the bell housing giving some extra pressure to the bit. Lots of oil and a few breaks to let me and the bit cool off! The tapping was nervy because it felt like it might bust from the torque and that would really suck... 1/4 turn at a time and back out a little...another 1/4 turn etc. I removed the tap and cleaned it and the hole numerous times to keep a nice clean thread. I did go up town and buy a 2&1/2 inch bolt because I felt the 2" one might be a little short considering it has to "capture" the crank pulleys and enough room for a lock washer......all and all about an hour to do it and yes the crank is hard but the bits were harder!

A point of interest...Engine ID on fuel pump boss

The first two pics are of a bracket that was/is attached to my power steering. It doesn't seem to belong.Has anyone seen this bracket before? Bottom left shows the little gaskets that were/are on all of my valve cover screws...anyone seen this? or did someone make them up. Bottom right..I'm wondering if anyone knows how these stock covers were made? Yup they are tin but they are coated with a soft non rusting metal. It is very soft...kinda lead like. It sands off black and marks easily. There is a small raised dimple on the top of each on near one end and some wrinkles in the finish near where they are.I initially thought dipping but maybe they were electroplated somehow. When I was young we pitched these things out for a set of M/T's or the like.These days I have a curiosity about it all!

Hi Don. Valve covers are stock originals non scripted version...very common.. How bout that bracket? any ideas?

Looking good!

Here's the 63 vert PS setup.

Looks sweet Stuart!

Some guy in pei has everything but the air cleaner.

I view this forum and others as the greatest classroom available from the comfort of your own home! There is a vast wealth of knowledge literally "at your finger tips" here.I personally feel a duty to perhaps post some info that could/can be helpful. When I was in the autobody trade I was approached to go teaching....Knowledge is only useful if it's shared with others...and so here we are!!  I absolutely believe it and thoroughly enjoy being a part of the sharing of info...I'm very passionate about the trades and training.There's a severe lack of "up and coming" interest in all of the trades and I for one am concerned.     Thanks Calvin for saying what you said...not just to me but to all of us here!                                                           My exhaust manifolds sandblasted with my "spot blaster", rubbed down with muriatic acid,washed off with wax,n,grease remover and spray bombed with VHT flameproof header paint in "cast iron". Silica ceramic coating it says. I'm not holding my breath here but I like it to look nice goin back in!    Also I'm posting a pic of the tool I bought to do my pump to carb stainless line flare. This is a single flare at 37 degrees for AN fittings...A=army N=navy. This flare is peculiar to these AN fittings...not used in 45 degree double flares (brake lines). I looked around to borrow this tool but came up empty so I bought it....It'll be for sale after this...