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RE: my 63 283 Re&Re


otus wrote:

My exhaust manifolds sandblasted with my "spot blaster", rubbed down with muriatic acid,washed off with wax,n,grease remover and spray bombed with VHT flameproof header paint in "cast iron". Silica ceramic coating it says. I'm not holding my breath here but I like it to look nice goin back in!wink   


 Did the same and stunk out the house baking them in the oven (my Wife was outsmile). You could also "bake" them installing and running the engine.

001.JPG

 



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Prince Edward Island

'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.



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I was originally going to just let mine go natural, but those look so nice! And all rust looks so crappy.



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cdnpont wrote:

Nice way of putting it Stuart. It's feels good to share what we know, have done, or our experiences in the hope someone can make use of it, or to even help them realize that even those mysterious "black art" automotive things can be undertaken, learned and even mastered.

The internet and the great forums I visit (this one is tops) inspired me to take on the things I'd never have even attempted way back. And most of the time I've been successful at it. Most of the time!

Now you've got me taking my 327 manifolds off to give them a spray! And how do you like that Rigid tool? Can it do double flares?


  very well said. 



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63 Parisienne sport coupe (The Big GTO), black, maroon interior, 409 4 speed; former owner of a 59 El Camino, 63 Corvette SWC, 62 Chev Bel Air SC. 

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Yup,very well said indeed Mark. Now to your comment "I've been successful at it. Most of the time!" ....Well ,now to what I'll call my Ridgid tool debacle! I bought this thing to do exactly one flare on my 3/8 stainless pump to carb line, after which I would decide whether or not to keep it. After much careful bending and positioning of the line I cut it of with my jewellers saw so as not to work harden the stainless,filed it square,chamfered the inner and outer edges and clamped it into my new tool.Double checked for correct height, lubed the line end a bit and set the tool to work. Now, this tool has a small spring loaded pawl with a slightly beveled face on it that is supposed to release as you tighten down...As I wound into the tubing the tool's cone the flare formed ok but when I figured I was "home" the little pawl didn't release. So I exerted more force while scratching my head lol and well I got a nice shiny flare and a broken tool out of it! Was I mad? furious Well,I began to look for a cause and discovered that the little pawl with the beveled face was in fact installed backwards! I mean there are only two ways it can go and who would ever look for that out of the box!! disbelief This condition caused me to continue cranking when my gut told me something was wrong...so now it's broken and I have to get parts to fix it and ridgid doesn't ship to Canada! Odds of getting them to warranty this thing are unlikely now because I dismantled it to find the cause! Maybe someone knows a member from the US I could make a deal with to get the parts and mail them...E-Replacement Parts shows stock but....shipping.. does anyone know of a Ridgid parts joint in Canada?  If I don't repair it it's worth nothing so I'm learning the hard way on this one. The tool itself appears well made. No Mark, it doesn't do double flares...most double flares are 45 degrees..this thing is only for 37 degree AN/GIC single flaring.   Also   I have run into this type of what I call quality control issue more than once in recent years and it always bites!!



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What a fiasco. Where did you buy it? If Home Depot (they stock Rigid), they will probably take it back.

I'd think any large retailer would. Just put it all back together and back in the package (if you have it).



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IMG_0257.jpg   Here's a pic of my original spark plug heat shields after initial scraping and a muriatic bath....about 4hrs worth of time. Incredible metal. I'll now rinse these down with wax'n'grease remover and lightly oil them....These will get no paint.       BlackRock Tools is where I got my flaring tool.....Canadian side of the line..best price. I've sent a message to them regarding my concerns..



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otus wrote:

   Here's a pic of my original spark plug heat shields after initial scraping and a muriatic bath....about 4hrs worth of time. Incredible metal. I'll now rinse these down with wax'n'grease remover and lightly oil them....These will get no paint. 


 Those shields are in amazing shape for original. They are usually rotted-out or missing altogether. They do sell good repros of them for 283 engines.



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Prince Edward Island

'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.



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For the record, if you are going for originality, the shields were on the engine before it was painted to they have a pretty good amount of paint on them from the factory.

At least that's how it was in 66. When I pulled the 283 from my car most of the paint was still on them. No promise that earlier years were the same but I'm betting they were.

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67 they were zinc plated.



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I personally have never seen painted ones,Carl, but that doesn't mean much! confuse My exhaust bolt locks are the original units as well complete with the letter "B" stamped into each one! The starter support bracket,which I thought would be black shows orange all scrubbed up so orange it is. Lots of stuff here isn't exact Like the fuel pump,intake and carb,the new 3/8 fuel line, air cleaner,poly engine mounts etc. I want it to "look" stock and clean. I'm almost done the engine....now for the 2 spd..Just cleaning and a new converter seal and maybe paint the pan. I did the rear seal , mount , and re&re'd the shifter and scrubbed all that last year. smile



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O ya,I also wanted to mention that the coating on the valve covers may be Cadmium plating.This stuff was used for corrosion protection on various parts and fasteners. Very toxic apparently. Soft and silver. It fits the bill. I was reading that it was used before Zinc coating became the norm on stuff..

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IMG_0258.jpgIMG_0259 (1).jpgIMG_0262.jpgIMG_0263.JPGIMG_0265.jpgIMG_0266 (1).jpg  these are shots of my finished motor....ugh..I'm done here..63to one engine stand is for sale          I'll post some pics with the tranny on and then installed. I've got a few bits left over incl the stand and hoist....If anyone wonders what the plugs are..AC45's    the ring gear has some slight starter burrs on it so no shims and torqued at 35lbs. There are not according to me very many detailed ,easy to see, images of these older and even older engine compartment type photos/views. Well ..here's mine



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Very nice work.

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63 Parisienne sport coupe (The Big GTO), black, maroon interior, 409 4 speed; former owner of a 59 El Camino, 63 Corvette SWC, 62 Chev Bel Air SC. 

Mahone Bay, NS Still not old enough to need an automatic



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What is the tube down by the #4 spark plug? It seems be be in behind the exhaust manifold.

Also, the spark plug wire retainer on the back of the block behind the #8 cylinder isn't quite right. It's a copy of the one behind the #7 cylinder. It should also have the openings facing rearward.

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That tube must be the warm air for the choke thermostat although I see an electric choke coil as well.



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"There are not according to me very many detailed ,easy to see, images of these older and even older engine compartment type photos/views. Well ..here's mine"

You are right at that! Make sure you post shots of the plug wire routing.

 



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That engine is thing of beauty!



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'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.



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Thanks for the votes of confidence guys. Those tubes are the stock warm air tubes ...one goes to the original choke and the other goes on the air horn of the carb .There is a dedicated tube inside the exhaust manifold that these two tubes stick into. I kept them in place in the event I ever return the carb set up to stock.Both tubes are available online including the little sock that goes over one . I tapped the mandrels out of a couple of aluminum rivets and popped the rivet bodies into the tube ends to help keep dirt out of em. The thermostatic flapper/spacer on the exhaust studs is also part of this choke set up. You can get a spacer with no flapper in it if it's not used and also one with the flapper in it new..They are a bit pricey imo. My flapper in the spacer is gone which is just as well considering my current set up with dual exhaust. I think with the 4 bbl and the dual exhaust the horse power rating went from 195 to 220 on these 283's with the 2 inch manifolds. I just picked up my new decals for the oil filter housing out of the mailbox from Zip Corvette....I got two just in case I mess up. I got four of the valve cover decals for the same reason..good thing cause I put the first one on backwards!! disbelief  Ridgid tools said go back to BlackRock tools. BlackRock Tools is sending out a replacement flaring tool and want the old one back...Replacement bits are ordered and on the way from Motion Industies.......Gawd  nono



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The exhaust flapper closes when cold, it pushes hot exhaust through a passage under the carb and out the driver side exhaust. This warms up the base of whatever carb you have, I think it works the same with a stock choke or electric. The motor warms up faster with this setup.
Many wire that flapper open or replace with a spacer- todays gas doesnt like heat and the flapper caused gas to boil. Many times, the flapper got rusty and stopped working. You can also close off that intake passage to eliminate the heat or add a spacer under the carb.

Ive always wired the flapper open and used a spacer. The 4gc is very sensitive to heat.

Just an FYI for future reference.

Don

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63 Parisienne sport coupe (The Big GTO), black, maroon interior, 409 4 speed; former owner of a 59 El Camino, 63 Corvette SWC, 62 Chev Bel Air SC. 

Mahone Bay, NS Still not old enough to need an automatic



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On the topic of the intake exhaust passage, for those who haven't seen these, when I bought a Fel-Pro gasket set for my 327, it came with metal intake exhaust port restrictors to fit in the intake gaskets. Which I used. And I'll not have a heat riser valve. Just the core.

Allows some gas through, but no so much as stock. Probably 30% or so by the look of them. So on cold winter days (will be a year round fair weather car), the 327 will get some help, and not boil in the summer.

46164379554_fb790bc05d_n.jpg47336384452_69e7ab33c9_n.jpg

 



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Last year before we took the Parisienne on our trip I re&re'd the intake and put a set of fel-pro gaskets under it with the heat ports completely blocked. I also bought a 1/2 inch thick wooden spacer from edelbrock and put that under the 1406 to help dissipate the heat as well. I was having issues with fuel boiling and stalls at lights etc. You can get plastic spacers as well. My stock 300 hp version intake has bulges along the sides with the holes that allow the heat to pass under the carb...rather than tap and pipe plug I just put some Chrome ducting tape over the holes as the 1406 doesn't quite cover them...more of a dirt issue really as the ports are already blocked with the gaskets. This completely cured any drive ability issues I was having.

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DonSSDD wrote:

Many wire that flapper open or replace with a spacer-

Don


 I just removed the flapper and Cold Weld epoxied the flapper pin holes. Instant spacer.



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Prince Edward Island

'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.



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IMG_0294 (1).jpgIMG_0281 (1).jpgIMG_0282 (1).jpgIMG_0280 (1).jpg



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The last pic shows original crayon markings before I cleaned them off....Appeared as 11611....The last two 11's do not show in this photo. I decipher this as Sept 16 62.......not sure whether these were dated like that or not..The pump has a date and also the pan.This is an early aluminum 2 speed with the "Corvette"/console tailshaft. The very first ones for 62 did not have external cooling.This late 62 does ..for 1963 production.Several other little things make this trans unique including the deletion of the rear vent with a bolt/plug and also a metal cap on the existing vent. I love all this ...as many hours researching as cleaning it seems....

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otus wrote:

I love all this ...as many hours researching as cleaning it seems....


 Yes, researching is half the fun of old cars ... so I think.



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Prince Edward Island

'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.

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