Here are some images of my indecision/decision process regarding drilling a hole in my transmission oil pan. I know one can buy stuff but I have junk laying around and like a challenge. ....first a malleable iron fitting,cut off and welded in (they do weld) next I found a 316 stainless reducer (yup I worked at a wasteful pulp mill for a while) so I pared that down with my zip cut disc and polished it up. I found an 1/8 pipe plug in brass. Not quite your plug/washer setup but workable and a nice size as to not look too out of place.....

Ya,my old dad, (gone for the big dirt nap),was the greatest recycler I have ever known.He/we also lived on a small island between BC's mainland and Vanc Island. You can't just run to the store and get stuff....He had the largest collection of used nails I've ever seen! lol. Any thoughts on getting the gear out of my speedo bullet Darryl?

DonSSDD wrote:

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If its the one I think it is, the oring is on the outside and the plastic gear should slide out easily and spin easily.

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 Yes, this rings a bell ... I was parting a Powerglide car out, so really didn't pay too much attention to how it came out, as long as I got it out.

Pontiacanada wrote:

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DonSSDD wrote:

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Many wire that flapper open or replace with a spacer-

Don

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 I just removed the flapper and Cold Weld epoxied the flapper pin holes. Instant spacer.

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 Thanks Don, great idea as I was think how to go about without having to go to a exhaust shop or god forbid try to make something myself .  I have that flapper but it's not needed as I have a Carter with elect. choke. but was thinking that even when the flapper is open (mine moves freely so I "assume" it opens when hot, didn't check) it would still have some restriction on the exhausts.

Thanks again for this detailed thread....I like it :)

  Here are pics of my speedo bullet...Looks like a regular unit?? The shift shaft seal I got from Rock Auto...wrong part...too small for my unit. I do see what I think are correct ones on E-bay. I went to my local parts store for help and they have a seal coming but his "tranny guy" said "tell him to put two in there" . The seal seat will not accept a double up on the seal...it's just deep enough for one. These are tiny little seals.  The SO-19 is too tiny! 

Hey Don. The gear wasn't stuck. Just a bit "growly" when I turned it by hand hence the WD..I'm just a little uncertain about tapping the gear outa there..It seems as though it is factory peened (for lack of a better term) at the speedo end which retains a little plastic disc in there. Maybe I worry too much. Photos of the hole in my pan and the tools used to create it...a change up in my brass plug selection and the date code on the bottom of the pan. I may or may not post my welding of said plug   lol

otus wrote:

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Hey Don. The gear wasn't stuck. Just a bit "growly" when I turned it by hand hence the WD..I'm just a little uncertain about tapping the gear outa there..It seems as though it is factory peened (for lack of a better term) at the speedo end which retains a little plastic disc in there.

I may or may not post my welding of said plug   lol

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I ran across the spare I have the other day, and the gear slips in and out freely.

The plug looks good from the outside!

Tranny done....March 1rst.. No pic of my plug mig weld job sorry I did weld it on the inside and cleaned the weld up with a burr in my foredom tool. I'm sore it'll be leak free. Pesky bullet back together and installed. Painted various bits black and installed the pan. The park pawl shaft fell out while I was trying to reinstall the shift shaft. I have zero experience here so this proved to be troublesome for me and my bad eyes but I got it eventually. Now,finally, I move onto/into my engine bay...lots of grime but I will just clean it with no painting....Nice to get at the firewall with the drive train out of the way.Next year/winter I'll do suspension bushings and body pucks. I'll post pics as I move forward incl the motor and trans bolted together with spark plug wire routing before I reinstall

Well, it took forever with a dull bench knife to literally cut all of the "glued on" grime off, then I washed it down by hand several times with wax'n'grease remover and also a can of brakekleen in there somewhere. I then used a combo of simple green and super clean with scotchbrite to scrub it some more! I also carefully used dilute muriatic acid on the cast bits. At no point did I use steel wool due to the possibility of getting fibers inside the case.Also no sharp implements or sand paper. I made sure to rinse the cast areas(pump cover etc) really well as muriatic acid will keep on working if you don't. I was careful not to get acid on the aluminum. Next I used a combo of automotive polishes...I tried several products here...a course cut, a glaze, and also used autosol. Autosol is a superb product imo. All this by hand only. I use blue shop towel, cut up blue jean denim(the real stuff) and pure cotton like bed sheets or old t-shirt material if you can find any good cotton rags these days! Finally, after installing fittings in my elbows...tons of elbow grease! lol Thanks for this question as most of this stuff I do by rote. There's no clear or anything on it...it will dull up pretty quick but at least it's clean! cheers

 

Pontiacanada wrote:

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You can eat off that trans! A lot of work, but it looks great!

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 what he said. Try slowly running that speedo gear (I assume no fluid in there yet) to make sure it has no binding? Muncies clean up nice like that too as do super t10s.

Glenn, Id use easy off oven cleaner, the name brand in the blue can. Ive used it on paint and
Grease, but not on aluminum. Wipe it down with a varsol solvent and a rag. Should work great. Pressure washer would work too, but you may push the water into the transmission through old seals?

Yes..not retired over here either... I didn't use a pressure washer because of my fear of water ingestion. Oven cleaner is a good idea.