Yes, Weatherhead for sure makes them and I think Fairview does too, I've bought them also. If you can't get a parts guy who can figure it out, let me know and I can get you part numbers.

5/16" sounds too big Pete. Isn't it either 1/4" or 3/16", depending which line it is?

The cooling lines would be 5/16" but I thought the brake lines are smaller.

Thanks Guys.

I think it would be a 3/8-24 fitting. The smallest standard brake line fitting. The front lines are 3/16.

The fitting to the left would be the plug size, The one on the right will be for the inlet line,

Remarkable seeing as it is a Ontario car, I was able to easily undo everything. The key is heat and oil.

Carl, f you have a Weatherhead part numbers for a plug, that would be great.

Perfect, thanks Carl.

I did this brake conversion and used the plug you seek to block one side. I utilized the original "T" block that you show but had issues with uneven pressure to the front, specifically the left always had more pressure causing a pull. After countless hours and replacing parts etc,I determined that it was the original "T" causing the issue. Depending on which way it faced, there was better flow thru to one side over the other, but not sure why.

I suggest replacing it with a block that has only the number of ports needed - no plugs, and with as few right angles as possible. 

Good to know. Thanks Steve, could be a big troublesaver!

One possible solution could be to simply turn the block 90 degrees?

Block the old outlet that originally went to the right wheel (red dot). Use the two outlets (green dots) to feed the front. The green dot to the left would be originally the rear brake outlet.

Might it be better balanced? Feed straight down from the top, and distribute out the same distance right and left.

 

Are the front brake lines on a disc car the same size as drum? I used to know this.

Did you do any front hold off valve or rear proportioning valve Steve? This is a 70 setup, and would have had the front hold off valve at the master, which I have.

-- Edited by cdnpont on Sunday 12th of April 2020 08:33:03 PM

This was an ongoing headache for me that took forever to solve. I literally replaced every part from the master to the hubs multiple times, even the proportioning valve thinking I missed something..... still kept pulling to the left, no change.

Then, like an epiphany, I decided to examine that little distribution block above the left wheel (still an original part) and discovered that the flow differed from port to port even tho there was no visible issue. After swapping it out, cured about 95% of the issue. So still some problems but believe it to be a matter of sticking caliper guides and other little things.

One other note you may find helpful: I also learned that the push rod inside the booster was not fully retracting due to slight maladjustment causing a bit of drag on the calipers, naturally the left more than the right and particularly when hot. Apparently this slack adjustment is commonly overlooked. Noticed immediately that it rolls easier.

Did you find plugs Mark?

Ok, I took Steve's great advice about the original T causing flow issues when blocking the old rear line outlet. Makes sense to me, in fact I blew through the fitting when blocking each port, and sure enough the flow really (sounded) better and even through each green port shown as compared to the red port, that old front right port. In my mind symmetrical is better than asymmetrical for flow, but I never thought hydraulic pressure would care or even be be affected by a flow path. 

So I figured I'd turn the port and bracket 90 degrees on the frame, and use the greens to feed the fronts. Block the red (originally the right front).

My question is, now that I'm feeding from what was originally a 1/4 and a 3/16 line from the T, both always being a 3/8 - 24 fitting. Will I still seal a 3/16 line on what was originally a 1/4 line port? The port holes actually looked the same between the two in the T. Maybe I'm over analyzing this and it's obviously overkill, but I'm not well versed on reverse flare and how lines and fittings work in junctions.

 

Red= front right, left green=rear, right green=front left.

 

As found,

 

New 3/16 line to the front left, accommodating the new T position. Cunifer line...love it! Original 65 line and fittings to the right front still good to go! Amazing thanks to an oil spewing 250 six?