The lower control arm camber bolt is your adjustment on the 67. However, occasionally owing to frame sag, you'll run out of the ability to get out of excessive negative camber with just the camber bolt on a 65-70. Moog makes a offset upper control arm shaft to correct this.
Guys have been known to shim the rear bolts like Pete suggests, even on the 65-70 to add extra caster by moving the upper ball joint backwards. Stock strut rod adjustment (no more threads) can limit the amount of obtainable positive caster.
With modern tires, the chassis responds much better with a larger than stock caster number. This is at least what I've learned to be true on my 67.
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
Had my alignment done at ct 1 or 2 years ago. Took my car out thursday and noticed the outside tread is worn out. They were brand new tires.
The older guy at ct unicity went on their old computer and found the alignment specs for the car.
It's a very heavy bolt passing through the frame and the inside end of the lower control arm. Has a offset or eccentric washer attached on one end, and a corresponding free one on the nut end. The threaded portion of the bolt has a flat to position the washer.
Turning the bolt causes it to move (or cam) the entire arm inward or outward.
The head of the bolt can be gotten through a forward opening in the crossmember. The nut is seen on the rear side. The entire bolt with washers can be turned using the convenient hex on the nut end.
Yes. Once loosened they will rotate pretty freely.
Make a little mark on both free washers on the ends and the frame before you make any moves. That way you'll know where you were as a reference.
Just to note, tire wear as you describe can be caused by more than Camber. And changing the camber bolt position will drastically effect your toe and caster to a lesser degree.
Question; car sitting on flat level ground, wheels straight. Do the wheels appear 90 degrees to the floor looking at the front of the car? Are the bottoms out more than the tops, or is it the opposite? As silly as it sounds, you can see excessive positive or negative camber with just your eye.
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65 Laurentian post, 67 Grande Parisienne 4 door HT.
Ya on flat ground the tops stick out. I plan on putting new front suspension in. Did the rear shocks last summer. Still need to put in the rear springs.
I did a complete front end job on my 68 last year, with ball joints, tie rod ends, 3 1/4 turn steering box, etc, and then I took the car to Rosenort Motors for an alignment. Did a great job and the car drives wonderful. I should dig out the specs but I know I used the same specs as seventy2plus2 had posted on this site.
If you do a complete rebuild, you will need a die most likely to clean up the threads on the caster adjustment rod.
I tried to get my camber and caster as close as possible after my rebuild and I used the concentric bolt at the bottom of the lower control arm for camber. I had to loosen the big nut and then turn the bolt on the other end that adjusts camber. I also followed the great tips offered by CP members however my efforts proved not very good as my measurements stunk but they were good enough to drive to the Rosenort shop. Needless to say, I was way out and the alignment was worth the money.
I used seventy2plus2 alignment specs for a blue print on my specs and its great.
-- Edited by 68 Grande on Monday 20th of April 2020 12:41:12 PM
