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Post Info TOPIC: Drill out hardened steel shift lever?


A Poncho Legend!

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Drill out hardened steel shift lever?


Is there a way to drill a hole in a hardened steel shift lever? In the picture you can see the lever on the right has a second hole closer to the pivot point to allow for "short stroke" shifter operation. If I am right, a normal drill bit would maybe scratch the surface of the left lever if I try to drill a hole in it to make it match the right side lever.

t12.jpg



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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 44,000 original miles "FAKE_66"



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I have drilled hardened steel with masonry bits in the past. Just try not to let the drill bit get too hot.

Paul

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if someone has an iron worker you maybe able to punch the hole in



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A Poncho Legend!

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70 SS ACADIAN wrote:

if someone has an iron worker you maybe able to punch the hole in


 Now there's a thought which hadn't crossed my mind. Three local manufacturing plants here likely have tooling to do that. Thanks for the idea! 



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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 44,000 original miles "FAKE_66"



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If it is hardened steel you will either break the punch or die in the iron worker. Use a carbide drill.

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a421cat wrote:

If it is hardened steel you will either break the punch or die in the iron worker. Use a carbide drill.


 x2  but carbide drill$ can al$o get damaged or break,and you may need a number of them in different $ize$ to do the job

 

My choice is to go to a local shop that  has a EDM  (Electrical Discharge Machine) that is used

a lot in places that do tapping. These have been around for 40 or 50 years.

Lots of shops have them.

These machines are generally used to remove hardened broken taps from work pieces.

An alternative would be a wire EDM that would burn a circular hole in the right diameter using wire.

 

How a EDM works for taking out a broken tap.

 

Other things EDM can do.

 



-- Edited by Greaser on Thursday 10th of June 2021 05:17:21 PM

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Carl.... are you sure it's hardened? Why not try a "good" quality drill bit first to see before you go to all that trouble?

Or look for a set of levers from a Corvette, they had the short throw option, not may people knew, try the C3 era, say 68-75. (Muncie only)

 

B

 



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A Poncho Legend!

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I've tried other levers in the past and yes they were hardened. I haven't actually tried this one. Maybe I'll give it a shot but I'm quite sure by looking at it that it is. Those short throw levers also came on the full size Canadian Pontiacs like mine. I'm actually surprised that these levers aren't set up for short throw because they are the right ones for my car. This is the first set for a full size 65 to 67 Canadian Pontiac or Impala that I've ever seen that didn't have the two sets of holes.



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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 44,000 original miles "FAKE_66"



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Coming from the factory, they would be set at the "long" throw".  I know for a fact that very few Corvette owners knew they could shorten the throw. They built a lot MORE Vettes with this option than Can Pont/Chevs, a lot more.

So it would be the tranny specialist or the drag racer that would know about the option....My.02 cents



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Canadian Poncho Superstar!

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There is a good possibility that this piece is only case hardened and once you break

through the hardened skin the inside may be soft.

Grind a small edge of the piece to expose the inside,then use a file to see if the inside is soft.

If no metal shavings are on the file then it is hard throughout.

If it is soft inside, you can use a carbide center drill

in getting a smaller hole first in the piece, this will act as a guide hole . 

Then follow through with a masonry drill to open it up to the right size.

-G

 



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LT1Caddy wrote:

Coming from the factory, they would be set at the "long" throw".  I know for a fact that very few Corvette owners knew they could shorten the throw. They built a lot MORE Vettes with this option than Can Pont/Chevs, a lot more.

So it would be the tranny specialist or the drag racer that would know about the option....My.02 cents


Interesting you say that. I guess I was just taught very early in my car days that you always used the hole closest to the pivot when you had a 4 speed! I'd never really thought about guys not knowing about it. 

I always got a kick out of this section in the 66 full size Pontiac owners manual because-

1) How many factory 4 speed full size 66 Pontiacs were produced? Not many, that's for sure.

2) How many guys who bought a 4 speed full size Pontiac aren't car guys??!! Not like it's very hard for them to crawl under the car and move the rod down 1/2" to the next hole in the lever! Hardly need a Pontiac dealer to do it, like the owners manual says!

t6.jpg



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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 44,000 original miles "FAKE_66"



A Poncho Legend!

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Greaser wrote:

There is a good possibility that this piece is only case hardened and once you break

through the hardened skin the inside may be soft.

Grind a small edge of the piece to expose the inside,then use a file to see if the inside is soft.

If no metal shavings are on the file then it is hard throughout.

If it is soft inside, you can use a carbide center drill

in getting a smaller hole first in the piece, this will act as a guide hole . 

Then follow through with a masonry drill to open it up to the right size.

-G

 


 I have a small carbide bit. Maybe I'll put it in my drill press and try it.



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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 44,000 original miles "FAKE_66"



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4SPEED427 wrote:
Greaser wrote:

There is a good possibility that this piece is only case hardened and once you break

through the hardened skin the inside may be soft.

Grind a small edge of the piece to expose the inside,then use a file to see if the inside is soft.

If no metal shavings are on the file then it is hard throughout.

If it is soft inside, you can use a carbide center drill

in getting a smaller hole first in the piece, this will act as a guide hole . 

Then follow through with a masonry drill to open it up to the right size.

-G

 


 I have a small carbide bit. Maybe I'll put it in my drill press and try it.


 Carl, make sure the piece is fastened down really rigid, without any movement.

If it has movement it could wander and possibly chip the carbide bit.

 



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A Poncho Legend!

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Greaser wrote:
4SPEED427 wrote:
Greaser wrote:

There is a good possibility that this piece is only case hardened and once you break

through the hardened skin the inside may be soft.

Grind a small edge of the piece to expose the inside,then use a file to see if the inside is soft.

If no metal shavings are on the file then it is hard throughout.

If it is soft inside, you can use a carbide center drill

in getting a smaller hole first in the piece, this will act as a guide hole . 

Then follow through with a masonry drill to open it up to the right size.

-G

 


 I have a small carbide bit. Maybe I'll put it in my drill press and try it.


 Carl, make sure the piece is fastened down really rigid, without any movement.

If it has movement it could wander and possibly chip the carbide bit.

 


 Thanks for the tip. I would not have known movement of the part could chip it.



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Ive always had good luck with this product.D49A4B1C-3B45-4437-BD12-EDF4B0A1DFDB.jpeg



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pontiax- (canadian pontiac X frame)1964 Parisienne 2dr. hdtop lagoon aqua metallic (Q)

 



A Poncho Legend!

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Do you buy that locally Pete?

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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 44,000 original miles "FAKE_66"



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Yes, Adams supply. But ive had this can for 30 years, a little goes a long way. I can lend you the can if you cant find any.



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pontiax- (canadian pontiac X frame)1964 Parisienne 2dr. hdtop lagoon aqua metallic (Q)

 



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Carl, Let me know when you have your EDM machine built, I would like to use it ??!! That thing is AWESOME !!

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A Poncho Legend!

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Fake68 wrote:

Carl, Let me know when you have your EDM machine built, I would like to use it ??!! That thing is AWESOME !!


 LOL, should have it done by the end of today.......

Sure makes a broken stud/tap look like nothing.



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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 44,000 original miles "FAKE_66"

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