I was hoping to be celebrating Canada Day by heading out on my trip, but the car is not highway worthy. Wheel alignment techs won't attempt an alignment until ball joints are replaced. Uppers are especially playful. I found an old car mechanic willing to take on my car and try to get me on the road. Control arm bushings might be challenging to find.
I found ball joints at my local supplier (in stock!) for a 1964 Chev Impala. Again, like the steering linkage, these will fit my Laurentian?
I got a set of energy suspension black poly, they has a complete kit for 59-64. Find the kit number online and order via Rockauto or via Canadian tire etc. Check Antique Chevrolet in Dundas, they may have a set of stock bushings on the shelf.
Cliff, Ive been able to remove the top shock bolt without breaking it off with a box end wrench and Vise grips on the end of the bolt.
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63 Parisienne sport coupe (The Big GTO), black, maroon interior, 409 4 speed; former owner of a 59 El Camino, 63 Corvette SWC, 62 Chev Bel Air SC. 1963- Pontiac top selling car in Canada
Mahone Bay, NS Still not old enough to need an automatic
You previously said you had the steering linkage replaced, followed by an alignment. Didn't anyone look at the suspension?
-- Edited by seventy2plus2 on Tuesday 28th of June 2022 10:09:33 PM
Apparently not! I have no idea how the other shop did the alignment. I really struggled to find people willing to work on the car. I've since found someone who at least has a late 60s GTO, so I'm hoping for better results.
I got a set of energy suspension black poly, they has a complete kit for 59-64. Find the kit number online and order via Rockauto or via Canadian tire etc. Check Antique Chevrolet in Dundas, they may have a set of stock bushings on the shelf. Cliff, Ive been able to remove the top shock bolt without breaking it off with a box end wrench and Vise grips on the end of the bolt.
Great lead! Thank you. I'm hoping there is a set of bushings a shelf somewhere in a city of two million people.
Another thing that appeared after the first "alignment" is that the steering does not return to zero after making a turn, meaning I have to turn it back on my own. Is this the steering box or something else? And how safe is it to wheel around with it like that?
Are you just doing ball joints? If so, no need to remove the shocks. If you are doing the lower control arm or bushings, then yes..... if replacing the shock as well, replace the ball joints first as leaving the shock in place holds every thing firmly together. Those are *EXTREMLY* easy to do especially if they have been changed out before. The lowers are common replacement. The uppers rarely need but still easy. Just cut the rivets off with a hammer and chisel or air chisel if you have. Always leave the ball joint bolted to the spindle when performing the rivet removal as this will give a solid base to cut the rivet.
Use a jack stand or blocks under the arm if you remove the shock and then the ball joints so the arm does not fully drop. If not, the arm will drop and the spring mad dislodge.
Did the alignment shop check the car height? If the springs are original there's a good chance they sagged and that will prevent them from doing a proper alignment. You won't want to replace bushings, ball joints and shocks without first checking the ride height of the car, otherwise you will likely be tearing it apart again. I took a couple of pics from the GM 1962 Service manual, 63 likely the same since they are the same frame. I only took pics for the front and if you need them I'll do the same for the rear. The best place to take these measurements is while the car is on a wheel alignment machine. Most garage floors will have a slope and that will throw your measurements off. Honestly, though, if it were my car and I thought the springs were original I'd replace them any way, especially if you are paying someone else to do the work.
Sorry the pictures are sideways, they looked perfectly fine on my computer. Good luck!
-- Edited by Glenn Musgrave on Wednesday 29th of June 2022 03:29:56 PM
I have no idea if the shopped check the height. I did stop by the garage this afternoon and the front end has been dismantled. New ball joints and control arm bushing going in it tomorrow morning. Shocks have recently been replaced, but I don't know about the springs.
I'll see if I can be around when it goes for the alignment.
Are you just doing ball joints? If so, no need to remove the shocks. If you are doing the lower control arm or bushings, then yes..... if replacing the shock as well, replace the ball joints first as leaving the shock in place holds every thing firmly together. Those are *EXTREMLY* easy to do especially if they have been changed out before. The lowers are common replacement. The uppers rarely need but still easy. Just cut the rivets off with a hammer and chisel or air chisel if you have. Always leave the ball joint bolted to the spindle when performing the rivet removal as this will give a solid base to cut the rivet.
Use a jack stand or blocks under the arm if you remove the shock and then the ball joints so the arm does not fully drop. If not, the arm will drop and the spring mad dislodge.
Thanks for the tips. Shocks have recently been replaced. I have someone else doing the work. Seems to be going smooth so far.
My 2 C here.. Glenn is bang on regarding sagging springs and alignment. Sagged springs with everything else being good will in fact affect your camber angle(s). Camber is an alignment angle affecting tire wear and pull. Camber wear can affect one tire only or both depending on whether one or both are out of spec. A car will pull to the side with the most positive camber. Caster is the alignment angle that allows for smooth return to center of your steering wheel all else being well like your steering box for example. Think of bicycle or motorcycle forks on this one. The forward projection of contact with the road thru the center line of the wheel. Improper caster angle causes pull but not wear. Finally toe, the last angle to be set. This angle won't cause pull but likely is the biggest culprit of tire wear. Both front tires will wear if toe is out.
You really need to get an alignment done when you have that much work done on your vehicle. I suspect that even though everything feels good it will wear your tires out pretty quick. The chances of your alignment being anywhere close to proper are not very good.
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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 45,000 original miles
1966 Grande Parisienne, 396 1 of 23 factory air cars
You really need to get an alignment done when you have that much work done on your vehicle. I suspect that even though everything feels good it will wear your tires out pretty quick. The chances of your alignment being anywhere close to proper are not very good.
Thanks for the advice. I'll call tomorrow morning to see where I can get that done. I'm hoping Sudbury as I am close by.
I was impatient, and now I need to correct for my haste. I'll hope for some more good fortune tomorrow.
CanTire was booked in Saulte Ste. Marie when I called in the morning. I drove most of the day and stopped to check in person.
Long story short, they had time to do it. But the exhaust on my car hangs too low, and they would be able to get it on their rack. So that sucked. No one else was open. The tech, an older dude, who seemed to know thing, came out and checked my tire wear. Nothing obvious after 1100 Kms. He felt in behind both tires for feathering and could detect anything. He suggested trying in Thunder Bay.
I am currently sitting out the day waiting for the auto shops to open in Marathon, Ontario to see if I can get some problems diagnosed. The electric fuel pump is failing, and now the alternator is squealing. (I though it might be the water pump but I think it's the alternator.)
