As it was difficult to find the oem bracket and bushing for that bigger bar, I just went with the Energy part. If you have the oem parts, I'd stick with them. You'll need one lower control arm (left one?) to be hung down to fit the bar.
Drilled one new hole on each side and used a pair of aftermarket greaseable bushings. Be sure to use only synthetic grease. Super Lube brand is best.
Mark.. Did the 67 have BB in it? I've tried everything. I can't get it past the balancer. I read on another site of taking a die grinder to clearance the holes in the frame. I really don't want to do that to find out the balancer is touching the bar.
I also read that there are different bars for Sb and BB. Do you have any input on this? I'm going to call the manufacturer tomorrow. (if they'll answer the phone)
I called Hotchkiss today. Even they couldn't tell if it would work. They said the didn't think they had installed it on a BB. Also, they had no plans to make one in the future. I don't mind trimming the frame holes, IF it will fit and not interfere with the balancer...
Both the big Hotchkiss and the F41 bars looks similar. The Hotchkiss is likely considerably larger in diameter as I think it's hollow, but the shape is very similar.
Should fit with one lower arm down and a little relief trim on one frame hole. And it should also easily clear the BB crank pulley as seen installed in the image of a 66 BB.
It was an Addco bar I installed on the 67. It has a deep bend in the center compared to stock or Hotch.
Lower, F41,
66 396, I believe it's a Hotchkiss. Appears to have the passenger side hole forward? trimmed open a bit,
Yes, the Hotchkiss is similar to my 15/16" bar. The Hotch is 1.25. The Addco has a lot deeper bend in it than the Hotch. I can't get it past the balancer (so far) because the bend for the balancer is facing the balancer. I need to move the bar to dr side another 1-2" before I can rotate the ends to the right orientation.
I just don't "feel good" trimming the frame holes that much to have the bar touch the balancer, Would really like someone who has done the exact swap. Oh, the bar is solid, not hollow, weighs alot... The pass side hole you show in the above pic that is clearanced, I need to do the opposite side closer to the engine. I already did some minor work on the dr side closer to the rad.. Did you say, that you had to remove the lower control arm? I had the spindle split from the top and tried dropping the spindle down and back and forward...no go.
Good pics, Is one of those your car?
-- Edited by LT1Caddy on Wednesday 10th of January 2024 08:33:48 PM
No place to jack the engine up... I only have one bottle jack and that was holding up the lower control arm when I split the spindle. Don't feel good jacking up the engine with a jack under the oil pan and I don't have an engine hoist....... Will I get enough movement, need 1-3". Kind of painted myself into corner LOL
-- Edited by LT1Caddy on Wednesday 10th of January 2024 10:04:04 PM
The last two shots are my 67, with the oem lowers and struts, then with Global west.
Which suspension side have you split? Does 66 have the elongated drivers side hole? Pass side. Yes DS has elongated hole. (instructions say PS side to work with, probably because the DS frame hole is longer)
Maybe lower both arms? I can't remember 100% which side I came in from, but I think it was the passenger. Dropping upper AND lower?
It's more of a clearance problem feeding the bar to the drivers side. I can get the DS end thru the frame hole 2-3" before it binds on the balancer
