Both should be lubricated. Oil the roller axle. Then use something like synthetic grease on the tracks. When I replaced mine, the originals had the orange grease from the factory on them, nearly "welded" on at the ends where the roller didn't go.

HTH

This is the one I've been buying and I'm happy with how it works.  Part # 914

cdnpont wrote:

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While here I'll ask, what is the technique in removing the manual and re-installing an electric regulator from the door or rear quarter? Assuming it's probably a little more complex than can be easily told?

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 Hopefully someone here has experience with the 1969 style because as I recall they are quite a bit different vs the 66 style I'm familiar with.

I'm not sure if the 69 and 66 style are similar enough for this to help but here's what I wrote about the 1/4 regulator install when I did it on Tom's car in 2012. 

 

 

"I figured I'd post up my experience installing the 1/4 window. The right side was a battle. It's so long since I did this on my first GP in the 70's that I forgot most of it!

I installed it all in these steps on the left side and it worked a lot better:

1) Put the double window track into the body but just leave it loose, and set it farthest away from you in the body, leaning up against the inside of the quarter panel.

2) Before installing the regulator hook it to a battery and operate it to the point that the moving arm is just a slight bit, maybe 5 degrees above horizontal.

3) Place the regulator inside the body, and make SURE you hook up the wiring to it now.

4) Install the regulator, bolt it up just loosely. Make sure the roller on the arm is free and greased.

5) Make sure the rollers on the window spin freely and are greased. Remove the short channel that is attached to the window assembly just below the bottom of the visible part of the glass (when installed). It's 2 little Phillips screws.

6) Bolt up the double channel assembly (as long as you've cleaned the channels real well and filled them full of white lithium grease). Leave it loose enough to be able to wiggle it a bit.

7) Wiggle the window into place, engaging the rollers into the channel as you lower it in to the body.

8) Lower the window to the point that it would be in the approximate position that the power arm would be holding it at. You should be able to slide the short window channel on to the roller of the arm.

9) Install one of the Phillips screws. Move the window to the right height so the hole for the other Phillips lines up and install it.

10) Install the banana shaped short rear upper channel.

11) Adjust as necessary!"

Can the rollers be fitted into the tracks from along the sides? Or do they need to be moved to the end to enter?

On most of the applications it works best to have the window in the door and then wiggle the rollers into the window channel before bolting up the regulator.  When I do it this way, and since I'm usually working alone there needs to be a way to hold the glass up while working. I use wedges between the glass and the opening in the top of the door. The Princess Auto trim kit shown below has some great plastic pieces to do this.

In some cases you can first install the regulator rollers into the window channel that is attached to the glass, then bolt in the regulator loosely, then bolt in the other channels but other times you have to have everything fitted loosely in it's mounting holes first. You'll figure it out and once you do, the other side will take 1/2 the time the first side took.

According that drawing you should be able to work with it leaving the window most of the way up.

It seems to me when I pulled those regulators I just removed the windows but I can't say for sure.

I think you pretty much have it. The only variation might be which end of the channel you use. I recall on some jobs I've put the front roller in the front of the channel, then slide it way back until I can put the back roller into the back of the channel (or back first, then front, I can't say for sure).

One thing I did was make up a little harness with a switch and a connector for the motor on it. I keep a battery sitting on the ground where I'm working and power up that harness so move the regulator around as needed. I found that better than trying to use the stock stuff in the door. 

Of course for the back I can't to that on the 66 anyway because you almost have to hook up the motor to the body harness before bolting down the regulator. The connector is just too hard to access when the regulator is in place. 

I still think you should borrow a pair of door shells off me and have everything working before you take valuable cruise time away from that car fidgeting around.

Boy, I wish someone would offer to loan me a 65-68 GM B body 2 door post so I could build a set of power 1/4 window regulators for a 2 door post. Front door fits from a hardtop but the 1/4 regulator is unique and so far I'm not having any luck turning up someone who has ever even seen a post car with original power windows. (Yes, they did make them).

cdnpont wrote:

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Or you could simply use a aftermarket type setup made to work in the post body

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 No, you know me well enough to know I could never consider that option!

cdnpont wrote:

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Switches;

Curious,

The door car retainer. I'm assuming you center the card escutcheon (protector) over the old crank handle hole, then carefully cut an opening as close as possible conforming to that protectors inner edge?

That is how I've always done it, yes. 

...Insert the protector in the cut opening, then bend these tabs back around the card?

Again, that is how I've always done it. 

 

Does the retainer go on the switch, then the switch gets pushed into the protector?

That is how I've always done it. 

 

Or do you place the retainer in the protector first?

 

I'll be interested to hear other guys experiences with how to do these things because I have no idea if I'm doing it correctly!  Good questions Mark.

 

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