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Post Info TOPIC: 65 B Body 4 speed conversion post.


Canadian Poncho Superstar!

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65 B Body 4 speed conversion post.


I'd say the images above with the unrestored setup (with the stop tang facing out) on the table are 1970 B body. 1969 and 1970 are very similar, but 1970 uses the plastic neutral safety switch, and needs the hole in the clutch pedal arm for the neutral safety switch to clip into. The pedal I put in my 1970 was a 1969, and it took some figuring on where to drill that hole.



-- Edited by seventy2plus2 on Saturday 1st of February 2020 06:42:17 PM

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Good observation.



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67' Grande Parisienne. Ex Ottawa USSR Embassy car, 67- 68.
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cdnpont wrote:

I'm wondering about the spacer (6) shown in this diagram.

question; Is it of a height that could make a significant difference? I don't have this part.

 

From a 1965 Chevrolet assembly manual,

 


 You know how many of those B bodies I've stripped over the years. I've never seen that part before Mark.



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4SPEED427 wrote:
cdnpont wrote:

I'm wondering about the spacer (6) shown in this diagram.

question; Is it of a height that could make a significant difference? I don't have this part.

 

From a 1965 Chevrolet assembly manual,

 


 You know how many of those B bodies I've stripped over the years. I've never seen that part before Mark.


 (6)  3828841   Spacer R.D.         What's the R.D. stand for?



-- Edited by seventy2plus2 on Sunday 2nd of February 2020 01:22:15 AM

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Weird, that number isn't even in the parts book.

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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 44,000 original miles



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Started to measure for the tunnel hole and hump. I don't have a bench seat hump, and refuse to pay 100 bucks for the piece of crap that is re-popped. So I have a idea.

My plan is to open up the floor pie shaped. Staring in the center in such a way that I can pull and bend the sections up. Then mock up M20 with shifter and boot in place to position the metal boot flange in the correct orientation, then trim, bend and tack any of the curved and useful segments in place to the flange. Finally fitting in any other pieces to fill the voids, all the while trying to avoid hard edges as best. I'll make sure the hump follows a similar stock profile around the edge. Basically use the existing pan material as a hump. Combined with the metal boot flange it would certainly be strong enough. If it fails I'll just think of something else lol!

Edit; it wasn't practical to do the above, I just made a ring and started the hump from scratch.

I'm using Carls initial 10 7/8 from the forward floor pan tunnel ridge as a starting point. The 10 7/8 is the point of the center of the muncie shifter when in neutral. I'm coming 1" to the left off the estimated tunnel centerline. I used my own eye and a ton of images of the stock hump to figure out the rest, and have used some of the drivers floor pan details for better positioning.

I'm using what I think is a Nova boot and flange. It's the best I could come up with. I think at least in the opening size it's close to 65-66 bench.

49492590783_177c9d2f8d_z.jpghu.JPG

 



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This will be a fun car !

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Randy(Muttwood)



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In mapping out the hump, going through all the pictures as a reference, I'm looking at a great shot of the boot and hump from Carl's past 66 GP project.

But I'm struck by just how tall that stock 65-66 bench boot is. I know the stock boot is not quite all the way down to the base of the lever in the shot, but do you think the nova boot I have will work? Will it be tall enough?

49497177337_a8909b8034.jpg49497028961_55a76a9ea1_o.jpg

Along the molding line on the nova boot, relaxed from the inside it's only 2.5" tall. 3" on center if you pull up on the pleats a little. 3" on the inside to the taller left side relaxed.

But I'm worried it that it just becomes tight if you pull on it too much, and it would probably restrict the lever motion a bit.

Might I have to raise the hump a little to accommodate the shorter boot? Maybe its not to worry?

 

Any better boot alternatives? Any lines on a good stock one, or even a torn one?? I'll pay good money to make it right. cheers.

 

 



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Fabbing the hump.

Cut and pulled up the hump ring as seen on the tape template, transferred it to a piece of metal. Used .015" Galvanized. Pretty light, but easy to work. Cut it out using a expensive jigsaw with a very good blade. Easier than a zip wheel.

Formed it into the tunnel contour, teck screwed it down onto the template position. Happy with how it sat, removed it. Drilled starter holes with a step drill and cut out the hole with the jigsaw. Cleaned up the hole edge.

Dropped Kevin's loaner M20 Tail housing into the hole and bolted it onto the crossmember. Had the shifter bolted on the housing, set and marked in the neutral position. I have a stiff poly trans mount, so it doesn't allow the housing to sag at all. Made sure the mount bolts are 2/3-3/4 the way forward in the crossmember slotted bolt holes (per Carl), and centered side to side, the output seal face sitting square with the car body. Should be close.

Re mounted the hump ring. Will mount the boot over the lever, then mock up the correct boot ring position. The idea is to use some of the purposely leftover material "fingers" on the ring to cut/shape and tack weld up to the boot ring, to at least secure it's position. Then remove the assembly to the bench to "fill in the gaps" so to speak.

The boot ring that came advertised as fitting the Nova boot will have to be modified, it is nowhere close. Too big, 1" too wide.

Of course I had to bolt on the lever, just because.

ghh.jpgIMG_3894[6950].jpg

IMG_3895[6976].jpgIMG_3896[6980].jpg

Some guys will mock up with the entire trans housing and bell (maybe even the engine) in place. Not necessary. Just make sure the tail housing is in the right spot in relation to the crossmember holes and body. Also, as a bonus you can slip it through the hole you've cut, mounting it from inside the car. Tightening the bolts from underneath.

When done I'll screw the hump it back down, then weld it in place around the edge. Seal it up with some good seam sealer.

Question;

I'm assuming, when the time comes, that the crossmember will have to be dropped down to allow the engine with trans (and shifter mechanism in place) to be snuck in coming up through the boot ring?

Or is it better to install the mechanism from underneath later?

Cheers.

 

March 5 2020, A little more fabbing on the hump today. I realize it isn't going to have the contours of the original, owing to the Nova boot being shorter than the stock boot. But once the trim ring with carpet goes in, it should be a good fake. 

I'm pretty happy so far. Will make some adjustments on the angle of the boot before welding it all up. Bring the front left edge down a bit.

IMG_3902[6997].jpgIMG_3901[6993].jpg

wwweee.jpgnb.jpg

 

 

 

 

 



-- Edited by cdnpont on Thursday 5th of March 2020 05:40:22 PM



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67' Grande Parisienne. Ex Ottawa USSR Embassy car, 67- 68.
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The end result. Added some seam sealer (cheap, can't be smoothed, hence the ugliness!) and painted it Zinc primer. It's ugly, but it'll work and never be seen under the carpet.

It'll also be covered in sound deadener. Another task near completed!

hmp1.jpg



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A Poncho Legend!

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Yeah, but I'll always remind you I know it's there..... JUST KIDDING, it's fine! As you say, it can't be seen and the shape of an original doesn't show at all through the carpet anyway.

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I could have probably saved 3 afternoons of labor by buying that janky repop hump. But would have it been as fun or satisfying? I got to use my welder after all!

I'm not sure it would have even worked with the Nova boot. It's much shallower than the stock boot, and probably would have had to been stretched down too far to the point of binding the handle.



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When you posted your photo's a few days ago, I couldn't figure out what you were doing. Now it makes sense.

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Mark,

Any thoughts on how to form the carpet around the hump shape?

You're doing a great job with this portion of the project.

-G



-- Edited by Greaser on Sunday 8th of March 2020 10:03:07 PM

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Lookin' good Mark!



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'64 Parisienne CS "barn find" - last on the road in '86 ... Owner Protection Plan booklet, original paint, original near-mint aqua interior, original aqua GM floor mats, original 283, factory posi, and original rust.



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Greaser wrote:

Mark,

Any thoughts on how to form the carpet around the hump shape?

You're doing a great job with this portion of the project.

-G


Thanks George, been fun. I think the carpet will just drape down over the hump, not really following the contours too tightly. 

But I am assuming it will be a little bit of a challenge cutting the carpet accurately. Fitting the shifter with trim ring. One shot at getting it right.

Anyone done this with a new carpet? 

 

Nova boot with Nova carpet ring,

23.jpg



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cdnpont wrote:

Anyone done this with a new carpet? 

 

 


 Yep, and I screwed it up on the brand new carpet so I cut the original carpet and did it perfectly! I did a little bit at a time and I started with the shifter not sticking up through the opening. That way I could do a tiny hole in the center and work out from there. It was very time-consuming but I got it right in the end.



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