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Post Info TOPIC: 65 B Body 4 speed conversion post.


Canadian Poncho Superstar!

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65 B Body 4 speed conversion post.


I'd say the images above with the unrestored setup (with the stop tang facing out) on the table are 1970 B body. 1969 and 1970 are very similar, but 1970 uses the plastic neutral safety switch, and needs the hole in the clutch pedal arm for the neutral safety switch to clip into. The pedal I put in my 1970 was a 1969, and it took some figuring on where to drill that hole.



-- Edited by seventy2plus2 on Saturday 1st of February 2020 06:42:17 PM

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Good observation.



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67' Grande Parisienne. Ex Ottawa USSR Embassy car, 67- 68.
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cdnpont wrote:

I'm wondering about the spacer (6) shown in this diagram.

question; Is it of a height that could make a significant difference? I don't have this part.

 

From a 1965 Chevrolet assembly manual,

 


 You know how many of those B bodies I've stripped over the years. I've never seen that part before Mark.



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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 44,000 original miles



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4SPEED427 wrote:
cdnpont wrote:

I'm wondering about the spacer (6) shown in this diagram.

question; Is it of a height that could make a significant difference? I don't have this part.

 

From a 1965 Chevrolet assembly manual,

 


 You know how many of those B bodies I've stripped over the years. I've never seen that part before Mark.


 (6)  3828841   Spacer R.D.         What's the R.D. stand for?



-- Edited by seventy2plus2 on Sunday 2nd of February 2020 01:22:15 AM

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70 2+2 convertible
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Weird, that number isn't even in the parts book.

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1966 Strato Chief 2 door, 427 4 speed, 44,000 original miles



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Started to measure for the tunnel hole and hump. I don't have a bench seat hump, and refuse to pay 100 bucks for the piece of crap that is re-popped. So I have a idea.

My plan is to open up the floor pie shaped. Staring in the center in such a way that I can pull and bend the sections up. Then mock up M20 with shifter and boot in place to position the metal boot flange in the correct orientation, then trim, bend and tack any of the curved and useful segments in place to the flange. Finally fitting in any other pieces to fill the voids, all the while trying to avoid hard edges as best. I'll make sure the hump follows a similar stock profile around the edge. Basically use the existing pan material as a hump. Combined with the metal boot flange it would certainly be strong enough. If it fails I'll just think of something else lol!

I'm using Carls initial 10 7/8 from the forward floor pan tunnel ridge as a starting point. The 10 7/8 is the point of the center of the muncie shifter when in neutral. I'm coming 1" to the left off the estimated tunnel centerline. I used my own eye and a ton of images of the stock hump to figure out the rest, and have used some of the drivers floor pan details for better positioning.

I'm using what I think is a Nova boot and flange. It's the best I could come up with. I think at least in the opening size it's close to 65-66 bench.

49492590783_177c9d2f8d_z.jpghu.JPG

 



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67' Grande Parisienne. Ex Ottawa USSR Embassy car, 67- 68.
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This will be a fun car !

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Randy(Muttwood)



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In mapping out the hump, going through all the pictures as a reference, I'm looking at a great shot of the boot and hump from Carl's past 66 GP project.

But I'm struck by just how tall that stock 65-66 bench boot is. I know the stock boot is not quite all the way down to the base of the lever in the shot, but do you think the nova boot I have will work? Will it be tall enough?

49497177337_a8909b8034.jpg49497028961_55a76a9ea1_o.jpg

Along the molding line on the nova boot, relaxed from the inside it's only 2.5" tall. 3" on center if you pull up on the pleats a little. 3" on the inside to the taller left side relaxed.

But I'm worried it that it just becomes tight if you pull on it too much, and it would probably restrict the lever motion a bit.

Might I have to raise the hump a little to accommodate the shorter boot? Maybe its not to worry?

 

Any better boot alternatives? Any lines on a good stock one, or even a torn one?? I'll pay good money to make it right. cheers.

 

 



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